Taller waves on low tide?

Discussion in 'Weather and Surf Forecasting' started by civilengsp, Jun 24, 2014.

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  1. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    Check your data and your variables. If it is running the same simulation, just a different location, it should produce the same result. There has to be a factor or a vairable in the new data you are applying that is different. But again, its all about what kind of simulation and AI you are using...

    For instance, I took all my Buoy code from California, and ran it through a filter, changing every angle I had in there exactly 180 degrees, it was the exact came code, just reversed. So, when I applied the same exact math, based on all the programming I did on the west coast, the results were proper, but inaccurate. Meaning, that a swell come directly east, 3ft @ 12 seconds at a 3 foot outgoing tide, does not produce the same results as the 3ft @ 12 seconds coming directly west to the west coast. The bottom contours were the true variable that made the data all wrong. So basically, through trial and error, the unfortunate truth was the the exact same swell, at an opposite angle, hitting our beach here, only produces a wave about half the size. This is because of how deep the shelf is on the west coast and how rapidly it does get deep.

    But... If you are only running simulations, and you dont have variables accounting for all the bathometry or whatever, there should be zero affect on your simulations. It should produce the exact same result, unless there is a layer of variables or data that you are overlooking...

    Hard to tell without knowing all the data you are mining to produce these simulations. Because buoy data alone will not give you any of that. You would have to overlay this on a geo-map, running two different kinds of code together to get true output.
     
  2. Sandblasters

    Sandblasters Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2013
    032.jpg 031.jpg
    unfortunately i didnt surf hurricane sandy on hhi, but i did surf it on lake erie i was going to college out of state for a semester and that was a crazy experience, when you see 14 surfer in the water outside of cleveland. i herd sandy was a bust here compared to most places, i mean look at the pics from Florida and mid Atlantic. idk man ive never gone out to gaskin though, we both got to learn the ropes lol. when i took that pic it was small but i mean **** barrels were to be had and thats all that matters right? the pics from sandy i saw were super small here i still dont believe it. here was a quick one i took during Irene when the swell started dropping after i got out. hard to see the size because there is no reference.
     

  3. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    We could hit the bank right up on the north end that we discussed. Gaskin is out at sea though. Thats f'in nuts.

    Sandy was good. Best ive seen here. It was a solid 6 feet. Clean as hell. But I paddled out with dry hair and never really had the blood pumping. It was just clean, offshore, waves. Carolina Cuts backs were dumping buckets everywhere. Just no tube riding.
     
  4. Sandblasters

    Sandblasters Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2013
    im sorry i meant joiner the whole time not gaskin. gaskin would be really cool though, idk if you've herd of this but the savannah river shipping channel has a Galveston type wave that breaks like a good 4 or 5 foot when a ship goes though idk where its at but i think its off the jetties. look it up.

    on a side note my fin hit something big on my paddle out today and it wasnt the sand, my board stopped mid paddle.
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2014
  5. Sandblasters

    Sandblasters Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2013
    also if you look in the back ground of those pic you can see the breakers in the back ground that is gaskin or the sandbars. because where i surf gaskin is right out at the horizon i see it break from the shore on big swells.
     
  6. NJ glide

    NJ glide Well-Known Member

    867
    Jun 8, 2013
    Being someone who surfs and spends alot of time out on a boat too id say it depends. Waves in the surf zone bottom contour, wind and tide have all different effects at different spots. In open ocean wind against tide is usually the roughest.
     
  7. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Figures don't lie but liars figure. All you engineers live in a fantasy world, where a 40 year storm in your books is the 10 year storm of today, and now we get 100 year storms on the regs. So all you models are worthless, at best and a danger to society in real life. What direction does your breakwater face and what body of water are you going to drop this monstrosity, and what surf break are you going to destroy? And how much are you getting paid to do this? Are you proud?
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2014
  8. civilengsp

    civilengsp Member

    7
    Jun 24, 2014
    There's no reason to be aggressive. You don't know me and neither what I'm doing. I'm a student at the moment, so I'm not being paid. With respect to the return periods, we can't see the future, so we must work with the available data so that, to the extent possible, the dangers can be measured and controlled.

    The project I'm working on is the improvement of an existing port... I'm not destroying any surf break.

    And yes, I am proud. Are you? You should be a little bit more respectful with other people. I wouldn't say you suck without knowing you.
     
  9. civilengsp

    civilengsp Member

    7
    Jun 24, 2014
    I do have the bathymetry data and it is included in the model. I'm running exactly same events except for the tide. Maybe it is what mitchell's talking about (thanks by the way):

    I am using SWAN. What do you think about this? Thanks again :)
     
  10. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    Sick one blasters!
     
  11. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    You come on this forum with a few vague questions, but still no answer on what body of water. Is this some top secret government project? Will there be restricted zones? Many times increasing the length of breakwaters or jetties increases refraction and makes it even more dangerous for boats to come in and out during high seas. Why is the port in need of improvement, and who says so? My hostility stems from dealing with a long line of idiots backed by special interests and armed with data to justify destroying our coastal environment. Other than that, your cool brah! Study hard and stay in school.
     
  12. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    Ample justification for hostility and suspicion.
     
  13. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    We are going to hit Joiner one day. I am thinking it would be in the fall, with a substantial, named system. If we time it when the swell angle is coming in straight east, it should come in above the Gaskins and deliver the swell head on, right at the bar out there. I see that bi*** breaking at low tide every time I am up on the north beaches. Clear as day. We will just have to wear the shark diving suits that day and say fu** it.

    Growing up, everyone told me how sharky the shoals and the inlet were in Ocean City. Seen one thresher there when I was a teenager, that's it. Ever. I think they just didn't want the shoals to get crowded and having guys towing into it.

    And as for the Savannah Shipping Channel, man... I have been told not even to touch that water with exposed skin. They basically said, if you get water from the Savannah River on your shoe, throw your shoe away. And those f'in cargo ships are insane. Last two times I have been down there, huge ones rolled through, taller than the skyline. Easily like 15 stories high. Moving a ton of water behind it. They go pretty slow though. The wake was not all that. They probably open it up a bit once they get out of river street.
     
  14. civilengsp

    civilengsp Member

    7
    Jun 24, 2014
    Not a top secret project. It's a port located on the southern coast of France (Atlantic) and is hypothetical because I'm a student. The port has suffered damage from NW storms and needs being repaired. There are no special interests other than get to know the way waves act against coastal structures. I thought you surfers were a good source of info... Didn't pretend to argue with you. Whether you like it or not, these kinds of infrastructures are needed and someone has to do them. Why fight if you can offer constructive opinions? :confused:
     
  15. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    If that is the case, then yes, I would side with Mitchell. When dealing with a "breakwall" or an obstruction that does not match the surrounding coast line, the dispersment of the water when it reaches it's final destination would be different. So, if you have a breakwall in between two normal beaches, the water will jack up as it approaches the break wall earlier than it would without obstruction. Maybe this is magnified at the lower tide, where the water has less option to move any way but up. If that makes sense.

    Something you may want to look into, model wise, if you can pull similar data, would be looking at a model of water breaking up against a cliff and then the same water breaking on sand. So, find a stretch of beach, Sunset Cliffs would be a good instance of this. There are open, sandy beaches, where the waves eventually crash into, but mixed among them are tall cliffs. So, if you could look at an area like that, preferably if there is one in southern france, that could give you an answer. If could either tell you, yes, my simulation is correct, and it is doing what it would actually do, or something is just off.

    I can't say yey or ney on the low tide thing, but if you are talking about water refraction off a structure, then at a low tide, that could create more water, forcing what we consider a "wave height" to be higher, simply because the water is slightly taller above the ocean's surface. But in reality, I don't think what you would see is actually a "wave" as it were. It would, mathematically speaking just mean that there is a slightly higher amount of water moving around above the sea level....

    Dunno. But like I said, look for an area along that coast that has a natural obstruction. A cliff or hillside where the waves actually crash right into it. Take a look at that area and how it reacts, and that should give you your answer.
     
  16. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    I guess what I am saying, is that what the simulation considers "a wave" is probably not a wave. because what the algorythm considers a wave is just the amount of water above sea level as the ocean moves. As long as the moving water falls into all the scenerios and filters, it will be treated as a wave on your model and the output would look like one, when in reality, it was just moving water, POTENTIALLY, even water moving back out to sea. The water, at a low tide, against an obstruction would create a rise in the ocean height, even if half of the water is moving back out to sea. The computer will just read that as "wave height" not taking into consideration what that water is actually doing. So, that added rise in "wave height" may not be a wave at all. It could just be the end result, which is identified as a wave, even if it is not.
     
  17. SI_Admin

    SI_Admin Guest

    There is a wave model called RefDiff developed by Kirby (last name) that you might want to look into, that takes account of the high resolution refraction/diffraction processes, which is what you are going to deal with with a breakwater. In general, tidal influences on wave height will be largely influenced by Bathymetry, but currents, refraction, and detraction can play big roles especially with coastlines impacted by coastal structures, such as inlets and hard structures or where currents from inland bays are nearby.
     
  18. civilengsp

    civilengsp Member

    7
    Jun 24, 2014
    Thanks for all of your answers. They are really helpful. I've been thinking that, as my model isn't counting right now with any wave breaking parameters, the shoaling effect is free to elevate the water as far up as nearly the whole wave height.
     
  19. Sandblasters

    Sandblasters Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2013
    I forgot how polluted that river is I don't like to eat anything out of it plus they dumped a sht tone of radioactive waste in it from back in the day when the savannah river site could get away with it.
     
  20. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    Google the Tybee Bomb. There is still a live freaking Atom Bomb in the water there. They think is is off the north tip of Tybee at the end of the Savannah River. Watched a cool show on it last month. But yeah, they straight dropped a live atom bomb into the Savannah River like 60 years ago because they were going crash land and they didn't want it to detonate. They have been looking for it for 60 years, with no luck....

    There is all kinds of nasty sh** up in that water. Gives me the creeps just looking at it from Riverstreet. Reminds me of the Baltimore Inner Harbor.... I actually knew a guy in Baltimore. People would pay him to free dive the inner harbor when people would drop sh** in. Cameras, whatever. For like $20, this dude would jump in the damn harbor, hold his breath and straight swim to the bottom, and sift through the gunk with his bare hands. And 9 outta 10 times, dude would come up with said item. Can't believe dude is alive. That water is straight filth. Dirty, rotten, industrial filth.

    That new Geico commerical of the gecko on the tiny boat is filmed on the inner harbor. You know that this is just an animation, cause a real gecko woulda died on contact with that sh**.