A real surfer is born

All good....... One word of advice or several. Son one named him after the ocean and pushed him to surf and now he sings. The other six cannot take boards out of their hands. Do not have to push or pull them in. Six year old has surfed more overhead days ( he is only 3.5tft and 47lbs.)than I have ever surfed and I have been surfing 25+ years. What more can a mother and father ask for, Christ following surfers and a singer who praises. Remember: pride comes before a fall, be humble in all circumstances. Don't push him to hard. Have seen lots of great talent quit because parents are trying to live out a dream.

 

Had the same experience with my 8 years old last fall....I have been pushing him into waves and having him go from belly to knees to standing. He finally started paddling into them himself (after we practiced nothing but paddling on flat days) and got up by himself! when I told him that I had been waiting for this day my whole life he stated "what, Sunday?" Now he cries when it is too big for him to paddle out with me and I go solo. I promised him that at the end of the summer I will get him winter gear so he can surf all year round with me! Next up is my 3 year old daughter (who has already bellied waves on the board to the shore)

 

Awesome dude! It's great how enthusiastic he is about wanting to go out in big waves. If I was 8, I would be too scared! Props to your son!

 

Word up.....

 

MY SAVIOR: My wife's youngest cousin just graduated high school. Their whole family is HUGE into the church. We went out to her graduation dinner at this mexican restaurant and a few of the guys there who had just graduated started "rapping" about Jesus in the middle of dinner. I almost choked on my Chimichanga.... Not my cup of tea, but they kids were quite motivated by the church.... I have never in my life heard church hop hip. I think I have now seen it all... They were pretty stoked though. I'll give them that.

 

Sweet....The whole perception on church is you lead a boring life. Dude my life is way more exciting now then it ever was. Nothing like not have to worry about tomorrow because only God knows that. Sounds like that family is letting their 'LIGHT' shine. If you see them again just tell them SHINE ON.

 

Thats awesome! My son is almost ready I think. Still pushin him in.

 

Started pushing my lil one into waves when she was 6. By 7 she was grabbing her board and going out on her own. Now she's 8 and two weeks ago she got on my board and I paddled out the back with her for the first time. She says it not so scary once you've done it. Can't wait for the day we can go OTB and catch some together. Congrats and here's to many more days surfing with the fam.

 

This is probably the most sincere / normal post I've ever seen from you.

 

Sick man, hes gonna be a little ripper!

 

um.... what?

 

Thank you...Just being real!

 

Nice photo, Dad. Bet your son liked it too.
Sorta like seeing your kid hit his first home run. My kids didn't do any surfing when they were younger. My second son, who's 19, is giving it a go now.

 

Had a Daddy-Daughter surf trip last Sat. Woke up early and checked weather and SI for CB. 1.9 @ 8secs and wind out of the E @ 10-15. I let her check both forecasts then let her make the call. She says "Let's go for it". I'm stoked...

We get there and its dark and drizzling but no thunder/lightning. Drive the N end and let her pick the spot. She picks a good spot up near the inlet. We go out, she catches a few, falls, hits the sandbar and bends her fingers back. Shakes it out, goes back out, same thing happens. She shakes it out again and heads back out. Starts raining hard now so we head in and wait it out in the truck. Storm passes so I go out to catch a few while she plays in the shorebreak. A catch a few chopped up mushburgers. Thunder rolls in then lighting. She pulls out her safety whistle and whistles me in. We wait out another storm in the truck. It passes. She wants to go snorkel now. I say lets go for one more sesh then we'll drive around on the sound side.

We go out, its calmed down a touch. She's getting into bigger waves. She gets a nice one, prob the biggest one she's caught and then it happens...I see her lean into her first backhand carve. She goes down the line for about 5-6 secs then it fizzles out. She bails and turns around and is whooping it up (me too). When she gets close enough I can hear her she yells "I'M SOOO STOKED! I DON'T WANT TO GO SNORKEL! I WANT TO DO THAT AGAIN AND AGAIN!"

I tell her I'll stay with her out there all day if she wants. She goes until she's worn out...We eat lunch, go snorkel a bit. We'd talked about exploring some other breaks on the island (have previously only surfed the N and S ends). I pull up a map and we go to Kure Beach and we stop at a few spots to check it out. I let her do the scoping and make the call...She doesn't like the steeper drop off at KB, and the wind is really picking up. Gives it the thumbs down, I concur. We try a couple spots at KB and CB then she decides to go back to the N end. I see some friends and park beside them and say hi. She walks past with her board and says "we're burning daylight Daddy". My friends love it.

We hit it for one more sesh, its really pulling and choppy now. She gets tossed pretty hard on the first one and decides it's no good anymore (I agreed). We pack up and hit the road.

The Grinch's heart grew three sizes that day...

 

Haha! Nice! Just make sure he doesn't do this when he gets his first suit.
[video=youtube;vgL6-ZhouOo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgL6-ZhouOo[/video]

 

(dog spelled backwards) cannot predict the future due to the randomness aspect of the universe.
if one did so correctly it was a GOOD GUESS.

the reason that the future in non-predictable is the same reason you cannot predict a coins' flip.

 

Solid post...took my 4 year old out this past weekend...can't wait till shes making similar statements!