In need of a little advice

The waves that we live by and the waves that we surf dictate what boards we ride. Not the other way around. So no matter where you live, North Shore Oahu or North Carolina, a longboard is ALWAYS in that equation. If you don't have an LB, and you plan to surf on a regular basis, especially on the east coast, You are doing it wrong.

And I would say that to every longboarder I know too. Okay, maybe you are old, maybe you dont surf when its over chest high.... But if a longboarder does not own any kind of fish/shortboard/under 7' anything, then they are doing it wrong too. No matter where you live, yeah maybe you can "try" to surf a longboard in 3ft overhead, dumping, draining beach break, but that my friends is a stupid thing to do.

 

So in retrospect, you were doing it wrong most of your life? It took me a while to figure this little nugget out myself, only owned HPSB at first, which hindered my growth as a surfer. Fast forward 14-15 years, finally got an 8'1" (mini LB) and my surfing took off, now I ride my 6'4" with so much more skill it's not even funny. No i'm no NJShreadmachine, I mean who is right? But I surprise the hell out of myself from time to time and look back at how foolish I was, but i'm thankful I finally got it. Better late than never.

I should have my first regulation size 9' LB next weekend, in the glassing stage as we speak, can't wait, it's going to come in handy on these knee high days, but I intend on riding that bad boy in overhead surf too, just the right kind of conditions, not dumpy, grinding, drainers, more like rampy long period stuff.

 

Not to take anything away from Jon Ashton, he makes great boards, but why not check out some guys in town if you're looking for a custom longboard shape. Greg Eavey's stuff always looks awesome, as does Will Allison's if you're into seahorse logos.

 

Also don't listen to the idiots who say LBs are only for small stuff. Iv said this a bunch here. Longboards are a blast in big stuff. I don't get why guys are so against a LB, as if others are going to think they don't know how to surf. That would be the end of the world for allot of these guys. Surfing is essentially about style, who cares what you ride as long as you ride it with style and grace and flow. It's so ridiculous the way some guys think. Not everyone trys or wants to surf like Kelly Slater. Some people need to get over themselves and realize just because they flail on a 5'10 dosn't make them a good surfer

 

.

 

I'm likin this beauty:

 

There's definitely a place for a longboard in your quiver. That said, if it wasn't for noseriding, I wouldn't own one. So I get where you're coming from.

If you're an mid Atlantic surfer, you should be sure to talk to a reputable local shaper who's proven himself with logs that noseride well. Not everybody builds a decent noserider, and not every noserider will work in every wave.

 

Jon Ashton

 

hoooeee someone took it personal. struggling with the sport, are we?
i hope levy drops in on you too even though i don't know who he is.

 

Keep your kook business to yourself and go surf at thurlow and rumson avenues in Margate.

 

ok. you comin w/me?

 

I have something very simpler to that. Works well in anything from shin high (no need for a log) or head.

 

Lucky......must also be way easier to travel with too. No need for a 15 lb. 9'4'' anymore!

Who shaped it?

 

.

 

Jon Ashton. He really know how to make boards work in our waves. Makes good logs too but I never really liked them.

 

been down there. i winged it; came back in one piece.

 

Zzzziiiing!

 

whoa that's a cool board! And a TON of volume. That sucker would go!
LBs - faster at non-planing speeds. I prefer it in smaller crumbly waves where I need to make reforms or get over extensive flats.
Fun fish - faster at planing speeds. I prefer it on slightly steeper waves, where you need to get to planing speed to get out in front of the soup. The quad is fast (!) and negates the need to pump - quad vs thruster is a world of difference (I've seen some guys my age work a thruster just fine but it would not look good on me! )
In many waves I find a fun fish actually easier to catch waves vs longboard ... even though longboard can paddle faster into the wave, the same hydrodynamics that allow a noseride can also hang you up on top of the wave when you are trying to catch it (esp in offshores).
Just my opinion.
There's no bad waves and no bad boards.

 

I get the feeling that some people think longboards only exist because of the "need" to be able to surf small waves... Some people actually prefer the longboard to short boards even on big days. At one spot near me, even on big days, the longboard is the best board for the spot and I love surfing the longboard there. long rides and flipping the bird to all the kook confetti on shortboards sitting on the inside. its a blast.