Damn that was gnarly. Whole video shows the truth. Crazy... BUT! Check out ol' boy coppin a feel at 1:47. Nice.
mon of bass gets it. and, yeah run 'em over.....if cameras are not in place......and, i guess, forgive the beginners; less so the intermediates and never the experts.
Best use for a gopro I've seen to date! People fukcing up my rides really grinds my gears. Newbies, when you see a surfer up and going, you paddle in to the breaking part of the wave and take it on the head. Leave the shoulder to the rider.
Respect the paddler too. I was paddling for a wave and this other guy was paddling back out to the lineup. He clearly saw that I was paddling for the wave and I was halfway standing up at that point, but he decided to turn around at the last moment and catch it too. Then he gives me the stink eye like I did something wrong. I kindly told him to paddle back out next time and wait his turn in the lineup like everybody else was doing. There was also another one that would paddle for a wave that was 50 yards away instead of just staying in his own area. He was paddling in front of everyone that was patiently waiting their turn for a ride. These were experienced surfers so there is no excuse for the bad etiquette. This is the type of stuff that causes problems in the lineup.
Maybe he watched you paddle for the last 10 waves and not catch one. Maybe he was tired of you blowing waves. Surfing is not fair or even, and no one likes you. If you want "your turn" go to typhoon lagoon and pay to surf. ANYONE WHO IS PATIENTLY WAITING WILL NEVER GET A WAVE. Getting waves is a grind and you have to be on the hunt constantly. Point in fact, that guy got a ton of waves, and probably had a blast while your patiently waiting and then crying on surf threads. You're the surfing equivalent to being on welfare. You don't want to go out and earn your own waves, you just want people to hand you theirs. Go somewhere outside of the US where there are locals that do not care one bit about your turn.
Hahahaha! That and the fade. Before the wave breaks, both of you on the peak. The jerk is on your right shoulder, two feet away.He fakes going left to get you to not go right, then he goes right. Makes me see red and actually lose it. Foaming mouth, the whole nine. I was surprised at how pissed I got. He could have said, you go left, I'll go right?, and I may have said cool, or maybe I yell "going right bro" if the left looks like a close out and I am on the actual peaky peak part of the peak. And that girl did not deserve that, but the guy was a total kook who rode her over. She did deserve a good slap on the butt for dropping in. I don't think I'll add that one to my repertoire, due to the PO PO. That would be hard to explain to the wife why I got locked up while surfing.
I don't agree with everything you said. i think being patient may get you better waves. but this line is awesome
Truly cant wait til Fall and Winter. Ok. jus not enough room. Seems they all know each other. Must always watch to see if anyone is one the wave already. If its a group wave, cool but this is not a large wave.
As far as waiting your turn goes ... I've never surfed a break that's so predictable that people actually queue up, and in that sense, you are right. But I think that waiting your turn is important in many situations. For example- It's a cold day and the wait between sets is long. You paddle out during a lull and the rip puts you close to the peak of an incoming set. There's a few dudes out there who have been in the water for hours. Do you take the first wave that comes to you, since you are in position? Or do you give it to the guy a little down the shoulder because he's already in the water? I would give it to the dude who's already there. Every time a guys paddles out straight to the peak and takes the first wave, I think "what a f*ckin d*ck." I think Matilda is right in saying that it wasn't that guys 'turn.' To f*ck up someones wave on the way back from your own is bad enough, and occasionally unavoidable. But to just take the wave? That's straight f*cked up, even if you make it back the peak. It wasn't his turn because he just got a wave. Share the waves, or you are a d*ck. I am far more infuriated by a shredder-bro who takes off on every decent wave than I am by someone who is being a clueless idiot.
The only times there are exceptions to this, imho, is at a spot with a single and very defined take off zone. But hard to make a wait your turn rotation in a shifty beachbreak.
I would say that as long as the person paddles around the outside and back to the prime spot it's fine. Might be a d!ck move but the remedy is to get in better shape and be a better paddler...
All the wannabe pros out there think they can just dominate a peak and say F U to everybody else. Guess what, do that around me and you'll get your head split open. I got no patience for rude jaggofs who think they are gods gift to surfing. You aint sh*t and i'll say it to your face. Meet me at my break bro...
I sent him to the local children's hospital where he was in the icu for a couple weeks. Also, his elderly grandmother confronted me when I got out of the water.... I fitzpedo'd her ahhss right into the sand. I don't think she made it...