the things you love about surfing

Also, I have been day drinking liqueur with aussies for over a week. My liver HATES me right now. cant wait till those c unts go home

 

Thoughts turn off, all senses are electrifyingly on! So alive, so charged up!

 

1. The variety. Every wave is a different, each break/spot is unique and every board you ride preforms in its own way. I can't stand monotony and I haven't found that in surfing yet, and hope that I never do.
2. The things we see: Dolphins being so close you can to look them in the eye. The way the sunlight reflects over the water in the morning and evening, rays just cruising by and osprey diving in the water to grab a fish.

 

You're not from South Philly are you?

 

that is the best smelling wax.i had half a bar and I put it in my glovebox in the car and its permanently melted into the glovebox.and my trunk has wax embedded in it it will never come out

 

Poetry in Life, amigo, thanks for sharing - - good stuff. Better than good stuff.

As you mentioned, as well, it's sharing with good peeps & the positive aspects that roll with that.

 

what I love about surfing,everytime I paddle out I feel like im leaving earth,like people are on land doing their thing and im out in the open sea waiting for waves.and wintertime is the best time I got away with just about everything u can think of that will get u arrested or ticketed for in the summertime.the beaches in the winter is like a desolute wasteland,like u left civilization and ur in the wild.i personally don't like surfing with people on the beach,the staring eyes cause me to make a lot of mistakes.

when I was a kid,i blew off my favorite teachers last day teaching to go to the beach,and it was a great day.it was a crazy day lol and I got a lot accomplished.went to the beach like 6am to 12,came back drove up north to pick my mother up from work,came back went to the pool for an hour,then I painted a canvas,finished up and partied at night time.i feel like surfing gets u motivated to have an action packed day,its rare I come out the water tired but some days when its big I can pass right out and I usually do take a nap on the beach in the winter after a long sesh

 

Hey ms passive aggressive who has no fear.

You only mentioned "I" or "me" 41 times in your masturbatory monologue. Particularly notable was your comment as to..."no matter who I surfed with, no matter how good they were or where we were, I just had something going on inside that they didn't."

Are you, like, a New Age guru who just knows better than the rest of us proles?

Perhaps it's just your narcissism flaming on high. Again.

Because. You. Are. The. Surfer. Dood.

Now git on over to your fave Walmart before the sale on mirrors comes to a close.

 

Why you gotta keep trolling me bro-chacho? I don't swing that way, although I am flattered. You are turning into a Zach619 minion. Reading my posts. Ranting about them. I mean, isn't that what people are supposed to be doing to you?

#savemoneylivebetter

And for the record, no, I don't really have any fear in head high mushy beach break. Sorry to burst your bubble.

How is the district treating you this summer? Hopefully gas prices aren't too bad up there. Cause that would be weird.

 

I have a feeling that one of these days, I am going to look in the mirror, and you are going to be standing right behind me bro. Your are giving me the creeps.

 

Thanks Yank!

 

If I can catch a few waves in the morning, I spend the rest of the day with a great sense of satisfaction, because I know that surfing is the best thing I could have done with that time.

Also, I love the view, of the face and shoulder of the wave as I'm riding it, and the view of the shoreline from out at the lineup, with the waves rolling towards the beach.

 

I only get satisfaction when I do some good turns...if all I get is just down the line cruisers, I don't feel like a "real surfer". The water is always refreshing (cold all year, here on the west coast) and exercising outdoors usually gives a sense of well being, but I'm not happy unless I make at least a few spraying turns.

 

Tubes are really the only thing in the memory bank for me. The other things are all well and good, and certainly not to be dismissed, but weaving through hollow ones leave more of a lasting impression in my opinion. That feeling and anticipation where your not really sure if your gonna make it, followed by a successful joyous exit will be with me till my last day.

 

I can't answer this without going into a 56 page novel so I'll just say this... I truly Love the ocean. It makes me happy and a better person.

 

Born in central Jersey living in South Jersey now

 

Uhhh let's not sabotage the coolest tread known to man.

 

Ben Harp: Special agent Utah! This is not some job, flipping burgers at the local drive-in! Yes! - your surf board bothers me! Yes! - your approach to this whole damn case bothers me! And yes! - YOU BOTHER ME! And Pappas! Oh, for the love of Christ. How the hell did I even let you talk me into this whole bone-headed idea to begin with.

Pappas: Harp! We are working under-cover. It takes time. We've produced a few...

Ben Harp: NO! No no no no no no NO! Let me tell you what you've produced... Over the last two weeks, you two have produced exactly squat! SQUAT! During which time the ex-presidents have robbed two more banks. Now for Christ's sake, does either one of you have anything even remotely interesting to tell me?

[brief pause]

Johnny Utah: I caught my first tube today... Sir.

 

How's your self-aggrandized life going, francisdrescher.....oh wait, we can read all about it because you spend hours telling us read all about it. You just can't believe you get called on any of your verbal crapola, frandrescher.

You're the one who kicked it off Walmart troll. Accountability: never a factor in your ever-shrinking autobiography.