I've been riding my 7'6" funboard all spring and summer long. Today I took out the 6'4" swallowtail I picked up the other day and blew it. I got up on two waves but they weren't official. I'm guessing I need more practice before I get on a shortboard. What makes a good transition board after a funshape?
that's a big step down (14 inches)...i'd also look at width comp. then thickness (but I think that might matter more once you're up) and don't forget rocker difference a new challenge and change of scenery is always good though, keeps things interesting
two waves and you think you (blew it, sucked, lost your heat, etc) need to transition? blow like 50 waves and then post
You weren't a kook. You were learning a new board. You've never paddled it. Sat on it. ANYthing. You're making a transition to a different shape man. Be easy on yourself and just Surf. You're not going to pop up and Rip. Remember how long it took you to even just Stand on that 7'6 fun board? This is all part of it brother. Again, go easy on yourself. 2 waves...hahahaha! That's like throwing 2 kicks and saying you suck at kung fu. Right now your body and mind are quietly working and adjusting while you're Out of the water. The board will feel more familiar next session and You'll get better every session as the board feels more familiar, and one wave it will just "click". Then you can come back here. Read what you wrote, and Really feel like a kook.
Yeah I wanted to test myself but obviously I chose something a bit too small. Good thing is that I got the board for a steal and will likely make money from selling it. I should probably just stick with my funshape and keep learning the roots.
Haha I like the optimism and I appreciate the input. I'm sure it will click eventually but it just might take a little while on the smaller boards. Regardless I am going to look at today as a lesson.
Paddle the shortboard a mile to get used to it. Then sit way inside and only go for the steep ones that suck out before they break. Eat it a few times for about three hours, then you'll be able to surf it. Just get to your feet a lot quicker than you are used to. Pop up fast ... use that as a mantra. Post back after four hours of self abuse and I'll bet you will be stoked.
Keep in mind that fun shapes didn't really exist before about 1995 at least that I ever saw. So unless you are over maybe 180 pounds you could just "practice" on the 6'4" instead of the funshape. Assuming its not some kind of chipped out step up board, which it probably isn't if its a swallow. If its over 19 inches wide then its probably a good enough transition, again unless your a big dude riding mushy waves all the time. Stick with it for a lot more than two waves. If you use it for 10 sessions in a row, really try to dial it in, and still don't have any fun, its not the right board.
The "transition" is to get spanked a few more times. Keep trying. You'll be surprised how you'll do second time, third time out.
Yeah you've got me rethinking it now. It would be nice to keep because it is in perfect condition and I do really like it. The dimensions are: 6'4"x20"x2.5" and I am 170lbs and 5'8" tall.
IMO that pretty much IS your transition board from a funshape to a shortboard. You have to relearn catching waves a bit from the 7'6" to that, but it is absolutely doable. Like the guy above said, sit a little closer in, paddle a bit harder than your used to, get to your feet quickly. Its that simple. And that hard.
Also taking the wrong board for the conditions happens to the best of us now and again.... Just ask metard. Got to bring the board the ocean tells you to bring.
This may not be PC to say, but a shortboard is harder to learn how to ride than a longboard or a funshape etc. Dont sell the board. Take it out when the waves are a little bigger and have fun on the other boards for now when its smaller. Trying to learn how to ride a shortboard in tiny conditions is like a frustration double whammy. Once you get a few good rides on the shortboard, you may find your more motivated.
my negative comment was actually meant to be positive...from your comments it seems as though the board (after just 1 session) was difficult, but like everyone else here, keep with it and i'm sure it'll work out...it just takes time. remember how long it took to go from straight to the beach to down the line...yeah, you'll get this board just like you got the funboard and you'll be more agile on it. just give it some more time and (imo) adjust how you select/give away waves in the line up and i'm sure you'll retain your respect in the line up '
Yeah I think I'm gonna keep her and keep at it every weekend. I plan on surfing throughout the fall and a little in the winter. By next summer I shouldn't be so bad. I appreciate all of the input and support everyone!
I didn't think your comment was negative at all. You guys have all helped add to my motivation. I'll probably stick with the funboard most of the time but bring out the shortboard every so often to keep nailing away at it. I'll try post a video at the end of the summer to show some progress. Thanks for all of the advice. If you are ever in S. Jersey hit me up!
definitely agreeing with the previous "self abuse" reference post... just eat it so many times on steep ones that you want to do nothing else other than get up and get going on a nice one. The first time you get going down the line you will be so stoked and all that eating it will be so worth it.
Try to get to where it's deep, like where you can no paddle take it off. And look where your going! Skateboarding helps. Watch some videos. Shortboards like dialed in movement, no extra movement like on a longboard, it has to all be functional movement of your body. Good luck! I am still figuring it out too! Every day of surfing is different!!!!!
Like everyone else said, it is all about practice on the new board and getting it dialed in. While I don't know the volume just by looking at the dimensions, that board is almost identical to one of my boards that I take out on smaller days. Additionally, I'm about the same size as you. Your board has a lot of float and should be perfect for you in time. Just ease up on yourself and accept that there will be a learning curve. Good luck!
