There have been discussions on SI Forum in the past about the therapeutic value of surfing for returning veterans experiencing or recovering from Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). This article is about a Marine vet who found canoeing an aid in dealing with PTSD. http://news.msn.com/in-depth/former-marine-paddles-away-2-tours-in-afghanistan I have found activities on, in, or under the water not only fun, enriching, but great for stress relief. Whether it was surfing, diving, sailing a Sunfish or Laser, windsurfing, or kayaking, it was special, and I always felt fulfilled afterwards. I wouldn't want a life without such experiences.
i got a case of PTSD once but the dis-order had not been categorized yet so all i got was neurosis. i was living in a high-rise in Lima, Peru and it seems 'my system' did not adjust well to being rocked out of bed by earthquakes at (of course) 2 am repeatedly. for years after i would wake up in a panic - cause thats what EVERYBODY does in an earthquake - only to soothe myself back to sleep with my mantra... new jersey doesn't have earthquakes....new jersey doesn't have earthquakes...new jersey.........
My next door neighbor is an Army ranger. Probably in his late 30s. On "Medical disability" for PTSD. I try to encourage him to surf, because he will always ask me about it when I am loading up boards. He hasn't cracked yet and come to the ocean, but hopefully he will one of these days. I think it will do him good. His wife is at work all day, his kids are at school and I rarely see him leave the house. He tells me he doesn't do well at stores, parks, anywhere with more than a hand full of people. Seen him go ape sh** on a few people before. Worst was a kid creeping through the neighborhood in a tricked out 300z with a loud exhaust. It was noon and his kid was taking a nap, he sprinted out and almost jumped on this teenagers hood and ripped his head off. Again, it was noon, the kid was going like 5MPH. I hope he will go surf with me some time, but with that being said, it may be good or it may be bad. I mean, I don't know how he would react if someone dropped in, or if he saw a jelly fish, sting ray or worse. I dunno. I am no mental health professional, but as relaxing as surfing is for us, there are plenty of situations out there that could trigger someone. I know there are various levels of PTSD, but the guy I am referencing seems to have one of the worst cases. He said he had a very serious situation at a kids park, in a verbal altercation with other parents, where he was within seconds of starting to just lay people out. So, maybe I don't want to be the guy bringing him to the lineup and then total carnage is the result. Again, I think surfing is therapeutic for a lot of us, but it's not for everyone. If its a challenging day in the water, there are plenty of situations that could cause total panic for some people, especially those that are just learning. I think that if surfing is the answer for someone with PTSD, they will find the ocean on their own. Most of us probably feel the same way, that for what ever reason, we were drawn to the ocean at a certain point. Surfed with a lot of Iraw/Afghan vets in San Diego. Good people, but I have seen some crazy situations with some of them outside the water. Made the mistake of invited one of them to be a room mate. I could make a whole other thread about that and it would blow your mind. Surfing ain't for everyone. Especially if you have issues with panic.
Nice artical- kinda sounds fun in a really wierd way... Thanks for sharing... Lol i thought I was the only one who couldn't deal with Peru's earthquakes.... I remember the nights waking in a panic... Jumping out of bed trying to remember the earth quake procedure... Run around my bed a few times freaking out...then it's done. Over. But can't sleep anymore
I believe helping others who are going through what one has have experienced (and perhaps still dealing with) can be therapeutic to both parties. There was an article in the Sunday paper about a wounded (quadriplegic) former 82nd Airborne paratrooper who was sky diving and involved in helping other wounded vets. Along the same lines, I see the Wounded Warrior program for surfing (and other sports & activities) as a very good thing. There are those in this Forum who have participated, and it's something I would like to get involved with next time the surf event is held in the VB area.
Agree. When I finished my enlistment I had doubling symptoms of ptsd and tbi. I was nuts before the corps and a real problem after. I self medicated badly. Surfing got lost while I was struggling. One of my buds said "you used to rip, get back in the water dummy." Sometimes I throw turns like I did when I was 17: sometimes. I'm still trying to hit ramps and often get frustrated trying to be my old self in the water-but that will never happen. My brain got rocked so my balance and equilibrium is constantly misfiring. But having something healthy and real to look forward to and generate healthy serotonin has helped me manage symptoms better than any therapy or meds. Life saver.
Hopefully you're right. Thanks for the boost. Trying to turn something negative in a positive direction. Some days suck. But looking down the forecast and seeing a bump in the charts always picks me up.
there are very very few things that come close to post surf session bliss. after a dozen or so quality waves, I feel like a million bucks (maybe a million colones these days due to my surfing abilities). problem is, great surf sessions don't happen all the time. if you're relying on that buzz you get from surfing to get you through the day, and you got no alternatives, you need to seek elsewhere for something that delivers every day. i really think this is why real surfers who have ridden some waves of consequence like to party, do stupid dangerous sh**, etc. what else can fill the void out of the water? a nice game of racquetball? taking out the aggression on a bucket of balls at the driving range? i don't think so. this is why when I go out for a drink, it usually winds-up becoming 5. oh well. that's the way i like it baby, I don't wanna live forevah!
smoke weed for ptsd,or for depression,or anything that bothers.it really works lol.drinking alcohol will lead to hard drugs and or suicide.surfing might help,but if u go out on a day when its onshore or rough and ur constanty falling or taking lips to the head,it will only make it worse.marijuana people,marijuana
there is a great deal of anecdotal evidence of all sorts of nature based activities being highly beneficial to PTSD / PCS, whether the cause is military service, sports injury, sexual assault or any trauma. There are programs that get Vets out hiking the AT, climbing Rainier, rafting in AK, surfing, etc that have had a great degree of success. Researchers aren't quite sure all the neurological drivers of this but one line of reasoning is that our brains are naturally hardwired to respond to natural stimuli, and putting the brain in natural surroundings allows the brain to start to rewire itself to repair the trauma damage. There is also some thought that the adrenaline activities, especially when done with friends, replicates the rush and camaraderie experience of combat or competitive sports that was lost. But it doesnt need to be an action sport as i have spoken with vets who took up nature photography and that was enuf to provide physical and mental recovery. these were people that couldn't even walk without a cane as a result of mental trauma. I know vets and famous professional athletes who will testify that discovering nature saved their lives. MattyB - thanks for your service brother and when its flat, get out for a hike in the pine barrens or get a SUP and follow the dolphins Zach - keep offering. i know a guy whose buddies finally physically hauled him out of his house (he could barely walk after 40+ surgeries) and made him climb. he now leads the veterans program for the sierra club and has helped many others find a measure of peace Cepriano - lots of evidence for that too but the great state of arizona just fired a scientist about to start a major study with vets and PTSD and cannabis. another conservative kick in the nuts to our servicemen
seems like it. but listen the surf is so good that its worth the neurological degeneration. also the ceviche is the best.
I have NSTD. No Surf Traumatic Disorder. I'll tell the biggest rush I've had was on a flight back from CR. We hit a hole in the sky and we dropped for what seemed an hour. It was better and longer than any wave. It was long enough for me to see people around me crying and praying. I was floating above my seat, held in by my belt. I was hooting and laughing like a mad man. When it was over, and I was able to contain myself, I looked around again. everyone was giving me stink eye. I said, "Hey, It's the last thrill we'd get, might as well enjoy it."
I think I remember you telling this story, still funny! And I agree, I'd rather go out in a blaze of glory then crying like a baby, crazy as it sounds.
