Have the week off this week, and I will be tearing Hatteras waves apart. If you want some footage of this for your little surf movies, we can meet at Conner's in Buxton. You will then be blindfolded, and transported to one of many secret spots. Serious inquiries only. Oh, and thanks to the person who reported me and got me put on lockdown a while back. You taught me a lesson.
Damn. I was just about to post this exact thing myself (minus the surfing/filming part). I think now it would just be too confusing for people in Conner's parking lot trying to find the right person to be abducted by. Back to the drawing board.
yankee I want deets bro. If you scored comparably in CR to how I did in the last week you're loving life. Hope you did bro.
The off-season is such a fantastic time of year to journey on a surf trek to the tropics. Yah, spicoli, back in gringo terra firma after days of way-taller-than-me swell. Yep: clean & green & way OH. Huge, glorious power-paddling down large exit ramps rolling & barking off the shoulders of the set growlers, or, if one went a bit (too) late then one was so steep & so deep, and the insane-looking & feeling will-he-make-it rush of speed down & across the face. Closeouts, sure, plenty, it's beach break & bb does what it wants to do to you no matter which ocean one finds oneself within. Yet....so many fine lines inscribed on clean, long, unbroken walls. Lush tropical goodness. Wet season. Zero dust billowing from roadways / coating the plants. Sweet air, untroubled slumber, pura vida isn't just a phrase. Daily torrential downpours replete with massive thunderheads, cover-your-ears thunder & thickly smoldering spreading otherworldly lightning bolts that could power Savannah. No crowds. Hello? Repeat. No crowds. Surfing some of the sweetest, and at times sketchiest, waves the Pacific offered.....all by ourselves.
Yes bro. Sounds like a smashing success. Hopefully the company was as top notch as it sounded to be. You'd be pleased with Spicoli's scoring back here. Sets were up to 3' OH when the swell kept building into the evening sesh. I knew it was big but only when I saw pics of the session tonight did I see how big it really got. My best maneuver rides were earlier in the day during the first two sessions but my ride of the day was the first takeoff I got in the evening. Looks like I was right on the peak and it was a screamer. Didn't think the lip threw out much but I was focusing on my speed and the drop and had my hand in the wave early on to stall a bit. The way they were walling up in the photos they had to be spitting some. Then when I was too worn out after that I just got shott off gnarly peaks for the next hour with no makes but a lot of fun. Cristobal loved me long time. Such a legendary weekend with great friends in the days following. Hope you braddahs all enjoyed fine company and good times also.
Hooooo Yank way to light my stoke fire even more....I head to Nicaragua in about 2.5 weeks!! Gettin a new stick made as i type just for the beachie barrels!
Perfect pick for time of year, IMHO. You're gonna have a blast. Headed to Playa Colorado....? BTW, I used to go to Nica and / or CR many xmas treks. I'll never again go back to CR or Nica during xmas: the holiday crowds on the waves are thick & it's gotten aggro because everyone wants to be on the wave. Labor Day & turkey day holidays are during their 'low season' ergo no crowds. Come back home from an off-season surf trek to a good scene: the families are pretty much gone from the USA east coast sand, the storms are pushing swell & waves have fewer riders as the air gets crisp & fresh.
You guys had to have gotten 'cane swell last week where you are. I know, I know, it's not tropical tastiness but it was still juice. right...?