Your duck dive is going to fail. now what?

big breath, hang on, & enjoy the ride.


NEVER, ever, EVER bail your board.

 

let go of everything, but your board

 

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/...wipeouts-special-caught-inside-edition_103659

Call Healey and explain this philosophy. He even took his leash off! What a kook! Cause you NEVER bail your board! EVER!

 

right, b/c that madman surfing maxing cloudbreak is completely comparable to normal mortals surfing their local beachbreak.

 

It does fall under the category of "never". Absolute words... Ditching a board doesn't mean your not macho. It means you were probably surfing some heavy **** and challenging yourself, when you ended up at the wrong place at the wrong time. It's inevitable.

 

if you're out and there is no one around you that would be hit by your board, take a deep breath and..... wait for it.... bail your board and go under.
however if your in a crowd you've got to decide who you like better.... yourself or the kooks surfing your spot...
but keep in mind this whole never bail your board.... if you've got a mack truck coming down on you.... it does not matter if you let go or not, in the end you will be separated from the board.

 

Yea don't bail on your board... unless your the only one out lol. I just dig deep inside and duck dive regardless, usually I get deep enough to avoid a major rag doll toss

 

congrats on not understanding how to use commonsense & how "exceptions to the rule" works. you're prob. that guy who sends his board soaring above the heads of everyone else in the water on a 4ft day b/c you don't know how to duckdive in the first place.

& it has nothing to do w/ being "macho", & everything to do w/ not being a douchebag endangering everyone else around you b/c you're afraid of taking one on the head.

 

Not only does bailing endanger everyone around you, it endangers you as well. It results in snapped leashes, long swims back to the beach and a serious slow down of your progress forward towards safety and the outside. When that board is out of your grip it can do some crazy things.

 

I've seen dudes swimming out to the lineup, with their boards trailing behind them...shortboards...four to five of them, effectively making a dangerous paddle out for everyone else within the 25-40 yard wide zone they were in. Short period swell last June. Unacceptable.

That being said, not gonna lie and say I never ditch...but when I do, there is no one behind me or in my periphery.

 

I kick my wavejet into high gear and power through it

sent from my Iphone 7

 

Thanks, and equal congrats on not understanding how to use, and over emphasize words correctly. I guess we're both still works in progress. Also, on the days when a ditch is justified, there is no "everyone" behind you. There's usually only a handful of guys out and if you pay attention then you know where they are. And ditching or not, your still taking it on the head. So if your afraid of taking it on the head, then you wouldn't you not even be out in the first place? No need to be disrespectful when something that you said doesn't add up.

 

haha this thread is one for the kooks. Tell healy hes an idiot for ditching his board, then try to duck dive a set wave at jaws/mavericks/nelscott. Better yet, go to belmar and try to duck dive.

 

Get a bigger gut

 

This is the correct answer.

 

If nobody is around me, behind me, anywhere near me, and I know duckdiving is absolutely futile to get under a wall of whitewater, it's bail-City. Who gives a crap? Everybody is such a giant tough guy around here.

 

I'm in touch with my emotions.

 

yep. duckdiving is absolutely pointless and more dangerous sometimes. i surfed the south shores of Kauai and Oahu a few weeks back and the swell was solid. 6-8 foot faces for us Jersey folks and so much fun...breaking over shallow and LIVE reef. the only way to get outta some crappy situations was to grab the leash, dive deep, and maybe grab a little reef, and surface when the foam rolled over. grab board, and paddle out for another wave. suck it.

 

Voluntarily ditching your board in even our biggest code red conditions is the worst thing you can do and should be an absolutely last resort. After you do that you might want to consider giving up for the day or at least head back to the beach to collect yourself. By the time you recover the tombstoning board, get back on and begin paddling you could have been outside already. paddle hard and duck dive. if it destroys you it destroys you but still hang on to the board until it is ripped out of your hands. you maintain a little dignity and having the board still in your hands will get you out of the impact zone faster no matter what you decide to do after. head in or continue out. heading in can be demoralizing but getting denied happens to everyone.

Healy and that animal of a wave is a completely different situation and ditching was really the only option besides attempting to dive the board and breaking his head on the reef. his ditch was survival. not just trying to avoid a beating.