Your duck dive is going to fail. now what?

Are you calling me a chicken romancer? For your info, I only romance them with my lips and teeth when they are cooked and slather with sauce!

 

Haha, no, that was directed at David Koresh and his farm full of chicken sex-minions.

 

I know, just messin wit ya!

 

Thank you.

I will search for the rack thread mentioned, haven't seen it.

 

If you practice your duck diving patterns, this will never happen.

To it's thier own.

 

Tried out some leash grabbing tonight while on the inside at low tide in waist deep water after getting rides. It's a risky situation. I tried it a bunch of different ways like you guys are talking about on the velcro, and I have no idea how dangerous that would be doing it in gnar. These waves were 4ft with plus sets just over that and they were not very punchy, even on the inside breaking on a few feet of water. Still, the fins were shotting up at me and so were rails. I'm sticking with duck-diving, as I always have. The question is what to do when you're already off your board, it's several feet away and that DOH cleanup is coming in at a swift long-period pace...

 

Thanks bro, good reminder. I'd seen that post prior and thought it was a good one. I did try this out last night, at least grabbing further down on the main rubber part of the leash. Just to see what it would be like at different points before and during the spin hits. To be honest with you bro, a smooth surface (leash) that's wet and getting yanked through the grip of your fairly smooth hand (we aren't reptiles now) is not a recipe for success. Not doubting you've found a way to make it work, just would like further deets on it please. As it stands, if I don't see this working in a wave with 250 kJ of power, I've got no clue how it can work in 10,000 kJ of power in S. Africa or Chile.

Trying to be a hands-on learner and experimenter here. Just not seeing any viable option other than holding my board without fail through DD's and thrashings on the way out back. I do love how easy diving under the wave is, just hate that feeling of liberation when the leash snaps. You go looking for the pull on your ankle when moving your leg to feel the opposition of the foam to being submerged, but just can't find it. Not a good feeling on a gnarly day. How many leashes have you cats broken from not holding into your board in heavy conditions? 2 for me. One on 2/14 in a Nor'Easter swell (schitt, I introduce you to fan) and the other recently during Bertha on the major Wednesday swell.

 

JOB two board ditch at 1:10...weak sauce.

[video=vimeo;105583779]http://vimeo.com/105583779[/video]

 

sick, mental, jesus f'ing christ, badazz..... I can't pick the right word.

 

Just thinking about the mechanics involved in paddling out on 2 boards, standing up on the foam top while slowly paddling...in front of a BOMB, sinking the tail so it shoots up and fwd, tossing SB over white water, taking a decent dive under a monster wedge wave, and not dying in the process makes my head spin. ....then he actually makes the takeoff and board switch. Sheesh.

 

Disheartening for mortals like us.

 

incredibly skilled surfer though he is, this video is conclusive proof that JOB is still a kook. & catch surf is a kook company for encouraging him in his kookiness.

evidence:
1. double board ditch (1:10 mark)
2. single board ditch (1:35 mark)
3. abandons foam board to go ping ponging through the inside (2:00 mark)

 

Yeah man, he should do that sh!t at keiki. Definitely some safety issues with that behavior.

 

in our own ways, you bet. but some people's kookiness is more dangerous than others.


i'm just cranky b/c the wind has been completely **** for the last several days & all i want to do is go for a surf.

 

JOB is a TOOL!

 

dude I totally feel you... work has sucked the past two weeks and I just want to get some waves to get away from the bs of everyday life. Haven't seen anything worth making the hour drive for though. Sucks so much when there's waves and just consistent steady onshores the whole time...

 

I got two waves Tuesday night, bought me peace of mind until today.