15 second swell period...

Discussion in 'Northeast' started by MFitz73, Sep 16, 2014.

  1. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    Right on, but I think a generalization that everyone is making is that ALL long period swells are treated equally. a 4ft @ 14 second swell in the SE is not going to "closeout".... Where if it get to 6ft @ 16 seconds, that could be about the thresh-hold in which the sea floor cannot handle the incoming wave energy, resulting in very fast long wave sections... Some of you refer to this as "closeouts"....

    I am just saying, as of late, everyone is freaking out at these long period swells. I have never heard such a thing. Sure, the bathymetry on the west coast is different, but its not until the long period swells get in the 7-8 foot range that you are at risk of closeouts..

    So, for instance, we are only supposed to be looking at 3ft @ 15 seconds down here. I expect stomach to chest high waves, with great form and a lot of punch for their size.

    I know Jersey and Delmarva are different, but you guys should NOT be closing out at 3ft @ 15 seconds regardless. Maybe at the lower tide. But I just checked the forecast for you guys up in C-NJ, and its maxing out at 3.8 @ 15... and Staying in the 2.5-3.5 @ 15 second range the whole time... Yeah its calling for 3-4 and 3-5 foot surf, which is just what I would think.....

    Just saying guys, come friday, I bet when you all report back, you wont be talking about closeouts. I know we are swell deprived and all that, but worrying about the closeout factor of a 3.5ft swell even at 15 seconds is being alarmed about nothing. If it was 5-6ft @ 15 seconds, yeah, maybe I would start thinking about specific spots, but man, that whole stretch of coastline will be fine.

    People getting bummed about long period swells is really breaking my brain. I get what you all are saying, but its so rare to get a swell with this fetch on a large scale. I wouldn't lose sleep over it at all. The swell will be plenty fun and most places will work just fine....

    That last swell was BIGGER than this one. This is a tiny little groudswell that should jump up at the last second just long enough to give the peaks some size.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2014
  2. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    I guess I'm lucky b/c my spot was lovely on the Cristo swell. I know Bertha was better for you liamsbarrels. But I'm ready for another shot of the medium period juice.


    Yo zach I couldn't find it dude, the original no closeout theory, but I will say it's pretty funny reading old threads. I stumbled on one from 'RILonghoarder' that was entertaining.
     

  3. worsey

    worsey Well-Known Member

    Oct 13, 2013
    jettys can work here especially a series of them.
     
  4. Slashdog

    Slashdog Well-Known Member

    May 22, 2012
    Yes... but you are forgetting about the dreaded replenishment. There were places where Cristo fired beautifully. Unfortunately I went to my usual spot(s) and I was treated to thumping closeouts, thanks to replenishment. Many beginners who tried their hand at surfing in NYC this summer were denied and probably will be forever ... it was like a graveyard of broken soft-tops out there. There were some comedic moments for shore.

    I have fun in closeouts too, but competition for meager sections is fierce; I missed out on the true greatness of Cristobal and I will conquer my FOMOO Edouardo. Eddie's mellow, but I'll be traveling a bit further to get the best of him. I'm backed up on ding repair and will be funboarding this one so I can live with it dropping a bit.

    The Unsound Pro is this week and I'm unsure of how it will affect the nearby spots, but I'm hoping for the best. F*ck closeout city. This is gonna be f*cking awesome boys.


    If my injury addled brain serves me right, I believe that Zippy was the originator of the 'no such thing as closeouts' theory. Zippy, step into the light, and claim your SI legacy!
     
  5. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    BINGO! I think you are correct good sir! It was b/t Zippy and cep. Well done, and I hope you score out East:cool:
     
  6. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    Yo slashdog I might be coming to BK on Nov 1 to see Dean Ween. You should go to the show.
     
  7. sbx

    sbx Well-Known Member

    977
    Mar 21, 2010
    I gotta wonder about some of the "instructors" I've seen out there, pushing people straight over the falls into 2 feet of water. I think I know based on your post history and Brooklyness where your usual spots are, and I've gotten some of the best barrels of my life this summer near there. Not made a lot of them, but who cares?
     
  8. Slashdog

    Slashdog Well-Known Member

    May 22, 2012
    Yeah, I dropped into a quite a few 'beatings' during Cristo, but it was a good time. Maybe Zippy was right- there's no such thing as a closeout. Just a micro-barrel and a beating.

    And there are definitely some questionable 'lessons' going on. There's the shorebreak death push, then you've also got the lesson groups that just sit wayyyy outside/down the line, basically on the wrong side of the next jetty. Nothing wrong with getting paid to be outside. But when they push people into set waves expecting no one else to go for it... or crowd the inside with children, it gets frustrating, fast. Some of the instructors are chill and communal, some think they own the place. Either way, it's not f*cking safe to bring a whole bunch of kids to the inside at a spot crowded with people who can't control huge boards.
     
  9. Slashdog

    Slashdog Well-Known Member

    May 22, 2012
    Sounds good man, maybe we'll get lucky and there will be swell that day too! SI NY meetup in the making. Definitely PM me if you are gonna get tix... that venue is kind of a yuppie sh*tshow, but so is everything else in NY.

    The green and crowds don't go too well together for me, but if you want a good place to burn and look at unsurfable ferry-wake, this is about 10 blocks away...

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Mr.Belmar

    Mr.Belmar Well-Known Member

    Aug 19, 2010
    Dude! Don't give it away- everyone things it's at 16th...
     
  11. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    Let's make it happen. I'll talk to my boy who's getting the tix.
     
  12. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    And sheeit, if there is swell, I'll drive down so we could sesh.
     
  13. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    So, whats the deal with old PBJ droppin in for a day over the weekend while I am not paying attention, then poof, he is gone? I didn't even get to give him the local gossip from Havre De Grace.

    Did he get banned again?
     
  14. stinkbug

    stinkbug Well-Known Member

    746
    Dec 21, 2010
    Wouldn't really call it a reef..more like a underwater breakwall/retaining wall. I've dived every square inch of it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2014
  15. stinkbug

    stinkbug Well-Known Member

    746
    Dec 21, 2010
    I would rather miss 5 east groundswells with period greater than 12-13 seconds to surf one good 8-9 second SE swell in NJ. Completely different wave here entirely, night and day. Literally unsurfable at most locations. Drop in and not even one turn allowed. Both are about equal power. One peels and barrels down the beach. The other dumps 5 feet in front of you.
    Marine forecast is even calling this one at 18 seconds. There isn't a beach in NJ that can handle 18 second swell.
     
  16. 34thStreetSurfing

    34thStreetSurfing Well-Known Member

    474
    Aug 13, 2009
    Unreal explanation slashdog.

    I didn't put in the time to read the rest of this thread. . .yet, but I appreciate the craftsmanship shown in this response.

    If by "city" you mean NYC. I've called out sick tomorrow. . . definitely going "out east" as they say.
     
  17. MFitz73

    MFitz73 Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2010
    some are starting to suggest that thursday is the day.... Probably would be good either day though.
     
  18. CDsurf

    CDsurf Well-Known Member

    391
    May 10, 2014
    long periods doesn't mean it will close out. This swell is coming from more of an easterly angle so it will probably be a little different from the last one. And it makes no difference at all if kooks paddle out. If you can surf well you will get waves and the kooks will get less waves.

    Also, alot of the kooks that were out this summer will be gone especially during the week.
     
  19. cepriano

    cepriano Well-Known Member

    Apr 20, 2012
    are u folks talking about this 2.7ft swell or am I missing 8ft at 15seconds?the hype is not alive.

    these long period swells give us all closeouts because of decades of beach replenishment in the garden state.just because its a sandbar doesn't mean its going to be a closeout.look at mexico right now lol,no problem.

    but yea unfortuatly its going to be all closeouts unless u want to paddle out at the inlet with 700 other people.looks like waves somewhat for the rest of the week.saturday looks like a medium period swell which will be pretty good.i used to get all hyped up for the cane swells,but winter is where its at.medium period swell is what u want for the northeast.
     
  20. 34thStreetSurfing

    34thStreetSurfing Well-Known Member

    474
    Aug 13, 2009
    I know, I know, I know. I'm kicking myself for calling out Wednesday now. I think it'll still be good though.

    Actually. . . F that right? Closeouts all over NJ and NY. No one go in, the loch ness monster swam over and has an appetite for school-skipping scoundrels.