refraction to blame?

anything under 3ft in Monmouth county means flat.deal is the only place that breaks at 2ft,and u don't want to surf there lol.I learned a long time ago,i don't head out unless it 3.5ft or bigger.we rarely get waist high waves,either its barreling or its flat

 

just cause a swell has a long period doesn't mean refraction occurs. The swell itself has to be large enough for its energy to reach the sea floor at great depths. the continental shelf, which causes 90% of the refraction, is 600 feet deep. You do the math... a 2 foot swell, no matter how much energy is in it, and how long the period is, isn't affected by the bottom structure 600 feet beneath the surface of the water.

The bottom line is, this swell is not as large as it was forecasted to be. and a 2 foot swell, regardless of period, will give you a small wave. saw squan inlet cam a few times today with stomach high sets, which is exactly what a 2 foot at 14 seconds swell should be.

let's hope the swell builds a foot or two, and we get something better in the morning.

 

Tomorrow....

 

On the EC this is all true. Out west, it seems to be all different. 2ft and change swell height at long period blew my mind out there the first few times I was there. Deep to shallow real quick is divine.

 

um, yes and no. nomoco (grew up there) much worse than somoco. also, if you're ignoring the tides, well,
you shouldn't be. also swell angle plays in - some southerlies sing "pass you by."

 

Ya I had a fun little logging sesh yesterday at my hombreak 15th street #belmar. Idk why it was flat there lol, must be those artificial reefs haha jk.

 

yesterday aroundf 4 I checked the belmar area* and it was knee high. 20 min later I checked the Brick/ortley area and there were overhead sets smashing onto the sandbar completely closed out. Maybe the swell filled in a little more in that short period of time so i dont know if it had to do with refraction or not. Just what i noticed.

 

LOL. Still waiting.