This is a legit swell. The low seems to be hanging around and offshore. Buoys are large here today bro. Large. The strong offshores feathering in the face is real tough on takeoff. Positioning inside and early takeoff that much more critical I guess. Got some fast, fast rides. Got shacked in a standing barrell (my best ever) momentarily before the lip smacked my schitt-grinning face into the spin cycle. Funnest time in the wash ever after that ride. Hardly ever goes hollow at the home breaks. It is straight going off today.
im really disappointed in myself,past 2 days I surfed like a complete kook.its really depressing,iv been using a new board a 5'11,i normally ride a 6'2 with no problems,im either paddling for the wrong waves or idk what.im not blaming the board,its all me.im about to try surfing near my job instead of home in moco,next try looks like Thursday and im sure il get beat up twice as hard on my 5'11.its basically the only rideable board I have right now other than a longboard and im not strapping that to my roof and driving 45 miles to work down the parkway. lol I honestly need a surfer friend.this surfing alone crap is getting to me,im not one for crowds but 2 other people would be nice.after today I felt like chucking my board out the window,but I know if I do itll be the end and I cant end.i guess some days are better than others,but im really disappointed in myself.i need someone to yell at me in the water,when im mad I tend to push it harder,but after work surfing,already tired,only getting beat up by 3footers lol,idk im done talking.i need help
Maybe it's the smaller board or just an off day. It happens. It's happening to me more often too. I'm pushing 40 with a 2 1/2 year old and newborn. I'm exhausted. I took beatings today but I got 1 gem (backside barrel). It made me forget about the beatings. Maybe your undergunned with that 5'11 on a day like today. I know I'm riding a 5'10 hbsp and I'm thinking about bumping up to 6'0 with more volume in the right places but thinned out rails.
Monday was good! 4 clean in and out barrels, countless 10-20 foot cover ups ending in an *ss kicking. Awesome!
High quality waves today - got in around 12.15pm and squeaked in a few at my 'lunch break' (you saw what I did there, right?). I saw this kid today who went as fast as ANYONE I've ever seen on a wave (and I've been to a few ASP events). Good on ya grom! Swell seems to have dropped fast. Just checked the cams and it's lost A LOT of size (yet remains crowded with the after-work crew). Still looks fun though.
this was me yesterday. Took out my usual winter board (big mistake) and completely kooked out for an hour and a half. Belly rode in and decided to just go home. As I'm walking past groups of surfers I know, all resting on the beach, they asked where I was going and I replied I'm outta here, I suck, they all laughed. Turn the page to today, and everything was back to normal. Was able to spook off 3 waves of encroachers by out paddling and out surfing them. They moved down the beach and all is right with the world.
Yea... Monday was the call... Got out before and after work... Minimal crowds... Man I really miss those summer pros. Was bigger in the morning then I expected- so much fun! Peeling all the way to the beach!
Bro- have you ever thought about starting a thread to look for a surfing friend? Haha jk if your in the Belmar area... There's always ppl there
Dude! Belmar was firing- it's always going off! Belmar is the best break around! Unfortunately I was at an undisclosed jetty in south end SL.
ok, so my afternoon/evening session was FAR better...better winds, better tide. swell was noticeably smaller, but it seemed to work better w/ the conditions. super fun.
Yeah bro it's those artificial reefs! I went to lbi for the afternoon and was solo all day except for my dolphin friends who came through for a couple waves!
Ladies and gentleman, it appears many of you reached gnar-vana today. Bask in it. Become one with it.
Today was one of those days when the swell was pushing past the bar on the higher tide and just shutting down, too fast to do much. When I came back at low tide it looked too low but the swell was able to drag bottom further out and was perfection. What a great afternoon, the morning was fun too even with all the beatings.
That's why you need a jetty to focus the swell energy. Today was straight up ****ing firing in Monmouth County NJ
Super fun in OCNJ this afternoon as the tide started to fill in. Light west breeze, warm water, nice lines and zero tourists. September perfection.
Yup, live in Maryland grew up near Sandy Hook NJ. I loved those jetties and they do concentrate the energy but they also concentrate the crowds. I'll take a beach break with some current to eliminate those too weak to maintain position.
