This guys great, total kook feast for the forum

@Brew - spot on man!

@DosXX - also +1

 

Ha... Yeah next time ill set up the solo shot for the whiting hello kitty bodysurf session... After jetty walk of course....

 

Surfing: There is no one true road. There is always more than one way to get to your destination. There are many destinations- to have fun, to catch more waves than everyone else out, to rip harder, to walk the nose, to surf bigger and bigger waves, to travel to warm or cold foreign locales, to score hot tourist a$$ in bars in the Summer, etc etc
Every day, every session, every wave is different.
Some days are fun. Some days are not so fun.
Some days I get out of the water feeling transcendental. Some days I get out of the water and I want to smash my board in half, throw it in a trash can, and never go in the ocean again.
Some days I'm the best guy out there-head of the pack. Some days I feel like a complete and utter kook.
Some days I will drop everything else in my life to be in that ocean. Other days I miss perfect waves because I've got waay to much sh!t to do.
Some days I ride short boards, some days I ride Long boards. Whatever stokes my loins at the time.
At my age, I'm my own surf hero.
I didn't even read the article, I'm just basing this on the replies. I read what you guys have to say, not what some internet ***got is crying about in order to get hits on his site.

 

Well put... I didnt read it either

 

Riding a longboard is easy. Maneuvering, dropping in, or really working the whole deck takes talent. I learned on a fun board and quickly progressed into shorter boards. Going back and working with my vintage noserider has been a challenge. Anyone can get the board into a wave and stand on it until the wave is done. Only a few are able to make a couple turns and really make the board work. After I spend an hour on that boat, my shortboard is so damn easy to ride.
This was his exact quote: "Longboarding is what we do when we don’t feel like trying very hard"
Bullsh1t. Working a decent swell on a 6-4 or 6-8 takes very little work. Turning a 10' log, now that takes real effort.

 

Were you drinking while posting this stuff.

As you say, there are great days at any spot. There are also east coast spots that are more consistent with better quality than other east coast spots. California is better quality and has better consistency than the East Coast. Hawaii has better quality and gets more swell than California. The chain goes on and on.

I consider myself an good surfer who has been surfing a long time. I can rip the **** out of a wave and get barrelled. I have to admit that I never performed an air. It started past my prime and I'm not one to try punting now. I've traveled to many surfing destinations. California never really impressed me. Well, it was fun in the day when I liked to do carves, snaps and cutbacks on slower slopey breaking waves but now the only thing that gets me going is getting shacked. My trips to Hawaii give me the big barrels I crave and NJ gives me the smaller barrels to quench my thirst. The barrels I got Monday where as good or better than the pic in your avatar. Each dog has it's day like you said. I also noticed that there are a lot of really bad surfers in Cali. I think everyone has a surfboard out there along with implants or botox. Don't get me wrong. There are really talented surfers too just way more bad ones.

and golf is definitely not a sport. If some fat ass can do it and it doesn't require any physical fitness, it's not a sport. Baseball in a borderline sport since a fat ass like Babe Ruth can play it.

 

nice cep

 

whats your spot?

and my def of sport:
you break a sweat and someone is trying to stop you from scoring
surfing is an athletic endeavor, not a sport. anything scored 'subjectively' is NOT a sport

(can o worms)

 

North Shore of Oahu, North Shore of Kauai. I go to both each winter. I actually surfed pipe with good size early winter 4 or 5 years ago and it wasn't that crowded. I usually don't bother with pipe because of the crowds and it's really hard to get a wave if you aren't known or a local there. I do prefer the North Shore of Kauai. Lots of little breaks with few people. If you show respect you can catch some great waves in Kauai with a few locals.

 

I hear ya. To each their own. I am bias on your comments, having spent so much more time in CA then HI. I have not had much luck on the islands getting real size etc. But it is a common misconception, to me, from a lot of east coast guys I meet that have been to CA a few times and call it mushy and stuff. I mean, if you go to CA in July on a business trip and surf a few times, and don't know where to go, sure, you won't see much. But I spent 3 weeks in HI in September and saw maybe 2 chest high days in almost 3 weeks. And I was having to drive all over the island just to make a couple days happen. But it all depends, you spend year round time in a certain place, you get exposed to everything it has to offer and understand all the qualities it shows you. I have had 3 months in the winter without seeing anything mushy or under HH to the point where I would just get drained out. Like, can I get a small day already just to play around in. I am sure anyone who has spent an entire Winter on the NS in HI feel like that, 10x. But it's all good. I posted a link to the article. I was mainly trying to quote what the guy was saying. He is a total d-bag. But I remember reading it and being blown away. Like, why is this guy even writing this article? What prompted him to just randomly attack a bunch of people who already feel down and out....

And yeah, golf is not a "sport" I guess. But it's one of the most challenging things I have ever tried to do. Completely different than surfing, but equally as hard to "master". Almost impossible

 

he gets paid to write and doesn't have any worthwhile material
when you do something you dont like, but do it for money, whats that called? oh yea, WHORING*
Im a whore, youre a whore, we are all whores

* no disrespect to all the hard working whores out there

 

I read the article. Whether he's right or not, my "f*cksgivenometer" stayed squarely at zero. I surf for my own reasons, and will do so until if/when that changes. If that guy thinks I'm a kook b\c I'm not busting airs on a potato chip so be it. "f*cksgivenometer" will still be at zero.

 

So ... we're in agreement then. F*cking my neighbor's wife is a sport.

This is essentially true; at least prostitutes maintain no illusion about it. We are all tied up in the morals of our upbringing and grow up to find variously acceptable and normative ways to whore out our bodies and minds. If any of us really gave no f*cks we would be s*cking d*cks 1/3 of the year and surfing the world 2/3.

I had a friend who said that he would always rather use his mind to make money, as opposed to his hands. He said physical labor took it's toll and, in effect, physical laborers were selling their bodies for money. And he is totally right.

I never told him that I found it far more disgusting for someone to sell their mind.

 

HA! very goode slashdog

but 1/3 of the year chugging cock? you need to get better at it and command a higher rate and work less. get to slurpin!!!

 

Stick a beginner on a 10' board and see what they do. To its their own. Riding boards in the 6' range is simple, IMO. Really turning a log is not. And no, Roy doesn't turn. I still say what he is doing is, and what most people do on logs, is just trimming. I am only 2 years in, and I can spot good surfer versus less talented ones on LB all day long. I still completely disagree with his point about longboards. Surfing them is only as easy as you make it.

 

LMFAO!!!


I guess that makes me a pro-athlete...

 

Some of you guys sound like miserable people. Gee whiz

 

iv been called a kook once,by standing on a jetty with a big winter coat telling some kook lol to paddle out right here away from the crowds and where the waves were breaking good.i was there on my lunchbreak lol,and this dude was waxing his stick the whole 25 minutes,then came up to the beach.i felt like a black guy called the n word.it was very negative,it should be a hate crime if u call someone a kook then beat them up lol.its like hey theres that n888gerguy lol.this word should be abolished.