So, after my hiatus from here, I'd like to swing back and say I am no longer a kook supreme. I'm only semi kook, but I won't get in your way and I won't eff up your set. Made some friends, caught some nice waves, getting used to 60 something degree water being regarded as 'dude the water is nice today', checking weather reports three times a day, finding ways to get out of work and school when there's swell (it's an art form, and I give you all credit for being so damn good at it), ditched the cigarettes completely, dropped 20 lbs in a hurry, and I have a REAL BOARD now (yep, bye bye softies you SOBs that hated on it). S*** I even have a local shaper in my crosshairs to make me something for winter swell in the next few weeks (Chino surfboards). I've been in the water 2 - 3 times a week (permitting there's something worth going in for), as for some reason the summer hasn't been all that bad. Caught myself in my first biggish day two days ago...head high to overhead (yes, actual overhead, there will be some new englanders that will confirm this, it was sick and it held up great, some quick closeouts though, caught me by surprise about 7 times and I thought I was done for). It was wild, got demolished, but I loved it. Few rescues that day, saw a chopper, cutter, some kayakers get swept out real quick. Whatever. So, I'm hooked. Officially hooked. It's crazy just how much of your life and imagination it consumes. If you're not out there, you're thinking about being out there. When you're in the shower, you're thinking about salt water. When you're reading, you're thinking about waves. I get it now. I take back any negative BS I spit about this not being more than just an activity. It's a lifestyle....I finally get it.
I was thinking this as I was reading... The stoke will come and go young padawan. Take care of your responsibilities and stoke when at all possible. In my experience surfing has only gotten better the longer I have been doing it...
/\ Thanks zero. Scobey, I can't wait. The other day was pretty damn hollow (but fast closeouts, real fast), but I had no such luck (or ability) to stay on or in anything hollow. Super steep (at least for me) and my board was not conducive to riding those based on my ability. Needed something WAY shorter. I ended up taking the less than desirable waves (which to the lineup made them super happy), which to me were dead serious. Biggest I've charged as of yet. Being able to look back and see water as high as your head is wild. Surreal is a better word for it.
I remember my first time on larger surf, i didn't know what to do with the speed. HA HA, sometimes I still don't. Awesome feeling, though! It only gets better
Welcome back. Remember, there is no such thing. Eventually, you will just surf faster. They always come back. P.S. Sick goodbye thread. Not everyone has the testicular fortitude to just say f you to all the trolls. And mean it.
Well it felt like warp 7 hahaha. Scary as hell. Charging chest high vs OH is like driving a prius or a formula 1 car. And the wipeouts really make you ponder mortality. Can't stand up, where is up, where's my board, I have no air, great. Still love it. Are the trolls still trolling?
What's the deal with New Englanders and the 'lifestyle'? Does every NE surfer come with so much braggage? There must be some strange additive in the water in between NY and Maine ... too much need-validationum perhaps. MJR, don't worry about getting shacked- tricks like that and the subsequent Carolina Cutback are years away. For now just keep on posting, and you'll be shredding like big bro Emass in no time. And don't forget, if anyone asks you what you're riding, your shortboard is at home cause it's dinged. Welcome back MichaelJR
dafock you think? welcome back now, get some fins and bodysurf your way into some tubes. not as 'cool' but it will get you where you want to go [video=youtube;xMA8kpglDq0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMA8kpglDq0[/video]
Ain't that the truth! The better I've gotten over the years has only served to increase my overall enjoyment.
