Board for New Jersey Tubes?

Coil Flashback round tail and a log for the gutless days.

 

Nice step up 3-6 inches longer than typically short board. Little wider and little thicker for winter rubber. Rounded pin single concave for down the line speed. If you have the skills you can try one of the shorter hybrid step ups that a lot of shapers are making now. I prefer a little extra length for the gnarly days and high speed turns.

 

Below is one of my solutions for the conditions you describe. I personally don't find highly rockered boards to be advantageous (although I know many surfers who do). I have several customers who have converted to the wider, medium rockered design below which has a wide point set slightly forward to get more planing surface and volume under your chest. The idea here is to get in early. To do the under the lip drop for which you would use the higher rocker design you've got to be fast. In a 5/4, most of us are slower. So this design works great for a winter board or for the older surfer who just isn't as fast as he used to be. It paddles very quickly with the medium rocker and volume under your chest, so this is also a benefit when a lot of water is moving.

Length can definitely be your friend in those conditions as well, but once you are up and riding the length you need to get in becomes a detriment. So this design makes up for some of that needed length through width, curve, and lower rocker. It strikes a balance between the longer gunny board and your standard board.

 

gallery they look sick! what size are they? any idea volume or what size surfer they are made for?

 

Thanks. Top one is a 6'3" for a 6'0" 190lbs customer. He typically rides a 5'11" groveler type shape. The bottom one is 5'11" for a 5'8" 160lb customer who typically rides a 5'7" groveler.

The board is a step-up based off my Honeybadger model designed for average/everyday conditions. The step-up is designed to transition easily from the Honeybadger.

 

I WANT THAT Board
GALLERY how do I reach you ?

 

http://www.gallerysurfboards.com

 

based on weight, height, fitness, experience I should be on about 35L. My mini driver is 38L. I find it's right when I'm in rubber and I'm pretty happy with the extra girth.

 

A giant Roy toothpick would rule the NJ juice man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

northern moco gets plenty of barrels and there is every type of board ridden in them .I ride a single fin long board most of the time , regardless of how big or hollow it gets . When I feel like mixing it up I'll ride my 7'4 bing Maui foil which also is a single fin and both work great . Guys here ride short boards , fish ,single fin retros, long boards ..and there is this guy who rides a soft top fun shape and he even gets barreled . So it's not necessarily the board that makes the tube .

 

Mini Driver works really well for me but haven't had it out in well overhead surf yet. Biggest surf was probably the 4th of July swell that showed up before dark and got a overhead+ where I am. The last few swells didn't really get that heavy here.

It loves the barrel and has enough nose rocker to make steep drops. Mine is appropriately volumed at 27.7 (I'm 165 pounds) and I've used it in full winter rubber with no problems. Could probably go with a little less volume and would get the rails more foiled if I ordered a custom.

The Rock Up is sorta flat up front and don't know how it would handle in very heavy drops. I had one years ago but it was pretty short so the low rocker wasn't a problem.

Another option is the Rusty Slayer.

I also have a 6'8 rounded pin that only comes out on the biggest day of the year every few years. It's one of those things that you buy once and keep in your quiver for the one day you might need it or travel. Since I've gone to sub six foot boards mostly, I've got a big jump form my 5'9 Mini Driver to the 6'8 but hasn't been an issue yet.

 

Do you ride your mini driver as a quad or thruster? I find it tough to turn when its set up as a quad.

 

I have the 7' and rode it in 8-10' Irene swell http://www.cisurfboards.com/surfboards/msf/
Watch the movie Morning of the Earth for inspiration

 

Zen by chemistry or a bing dart rounded pin

..... just thought of this but has anyone ever seen a shoobie bumrush kneehigh surf on a full on gun? I have and it was hilarious.

 

I ride my minni driver as a quad and it feels real lose for me. I'm riding it with clay Marzos and it feels good on my carves and turns.

 

Agreed!

 

I owned a couple of Lost Rock-ups and they definitely got me in early under the lip on the heavy tubing days. no probs with the inside rail sticking and the paddle ability was good in the rips and chops. the only drawback I found was if the wave did open up for carving the forward wide point and narrow tail made the board less responsive for tighter turns and was really difficult to release the fins off the top. the Rock-up is basically designed as a tube shooter as is the Rusty Slayer. I have recently been riding a Lost MiniDriver and have only ridden it twice. It went really good last Monday up here in No. MoCo. Good paddle ability, no issues w late drops, holds well, yet still delivers in the carving and top turns.

I think its a fine line line when building a quiver and trying to get that all round board for those days when its heavy jerzy barrels. it seems like you almost need a quiver within a quiver. a strictly tube shooter, a step-up, and a longer thicker pin tail for those once a year every other year days.

good luck finding a stick.

 

equipment-wise this is a good concept for those who would surf the north shore of oahu.