HH - DOH Waves

a good tip an old weight lifting buddy taught me many years ago is that the mind gives up before the body..

seriously those words will help u with anything that feels like its going to kill u.

 

Well put. How many Swellers really have ever been in DOH, let alone even on a seasonal basis. I've got spun in DOH, but not gonna say I've nailed a takeoff of greater than 10-11'. Is getting worked on a paddle out in DOH and nothing more really "being in" DOH? Can count on one hand the amount of takeoffs I've even attempted in DOH (12' and up) and it was both in El Salvs and SoCal. Days I've been out on the EC that size, it's been too gnar to make it out back and get real attempts at rides. But I've tried.

 

100%. I've stared death in the face to know that.

 

So true, everyone listen to CJ!!!

 

What would you call this...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiRD6i3hVlw

I'd call it solid 8-10' with the bomb at 1:50 DOH. It was actually bigger a few miles north.

 

You need to drink more water. I drink 16oz bottles like shots

 

Such a good post. For several reasons. You're typically gonna nail that first takeoff on stoke, gratitude, calmness, and confidence, so why not paddle in? First wave is usually the best, or one of them. You've now set the tone for the sesh. You've also made a wave that day in those conditions so the doubt can leave you. Only goes up from there.

Compare that to hesitation and all of a sudden you're 45 minutes into the sesh and getting dropped in on and cleaned up on by sneaker sets and you still haven't got a ride yet...

 

Watch it from the beach and have an exit strategy where you are going to end up if you eat it or get sucked down the beach.

Make sure you have a new leash.

If it is really big, I prefer to go on the second to last wave of the set, in case I fall, I only get one more on the head.

Look for the "swing wide sets" that break a bit off the main peak every 3rd set of so. This will help you get big waves at crowded spots. Be very selective. Once you go, GO! Paddle down the wave a few strokes. Draw out your turns a bit so your fins don't pop out.

Make sure you claim it! Double over head fist pumps and a big hoot lets the world know you are on top of it.

 

here is some new input:

Knowledge of the ocean bottom is very important, even on the east coast. When the surf gets overhead I surf two different local spots. One is a long sandbar in an inlet that is surfed around low tide about half a mile offshore. When the swell is draining water off the bar it actually becomes exposed. You MUST angle your takeoff. If you try to drop in and bottom turn you are going to hit the bottom, break you board, fall flat on your face, and then get hit by the breaking wave.

The other spot is surfed around high tide, very convenient for surfing both spots in the same day, but it has it's own hurdle. The wave breaks over an oyster reef. Wipe-outs can get ugly. You will get washed over the rock at some point and cut your hands, legs, and ding your board, so bring a back-up!

 

realistically assess your: equipment
experience
conditioning

move forward incrementally.

 

Honestly Id say 6-8 with sneaker sets. I wish Hatteras would stay that soft and manageable at that size. I forget that some of you guys have places that accept sizeable waves w/o getting completely killed in the process. That vid looked really fun.

 

DOH? Really? I haven't seen anything bigger than 9' in the past three years, and that's out of my league.

 

The best surf I ever had was about 12-15', just me and one other guy splitting the peaks. I was on my 7'0 for the first time. Worked like a magic carpet. I don't think I even fell once. Such a good time.

About preparation, have a good coat of wax and a lil extra in your pocket cause you don't wana slip off your board at that size. Don't drink the night before. Eat something that will keep you till the after surf grind down. Other than that have fun. Don't panic.

 

I'm expecting QOH (YES FOUR) from this coming swell at the jetty. NJShredmachine told me himself. He is making the drive down in his quad-turbo civic on friday night. Should take him like 45 minutes.

 

Aka 23-fotters

 

any amount causes your heart rate to increase, this is a two fold problem:
your heart is an oxygen demanding motha****a, the more it beats, the more it uses, and your brain needs that ish so you dont black out

also the increased heart rate will force blood to flow to the tissues and this will exchange o2 for co2, thus causing the whole body to burn through the o2 supply faster

low heart rate=longer breath hold

coffee=high heart rate, shorter breath-hold

 

These factors are all variable to one's conditioning. Higher aerobic conditioning = lower resting HR. Any supplementation should be done in moderation. Caffeine is a PED and certainly helps with focus and energy. Baseline conditioning is the most important.