humbled.. and confused

Probably the fact your riding a board with little to no rocker, a almost rounded nose, your probably not very good if that was the option out of your quiver for that type of surf. Get in surf shape, paddle hard, commit, take of angled the steeper the wave and depending how deep and pitched it's about to get the more the angle, don't try and bottom turn on a doh you'll most likely fu (k yourself up and dig rail or not turn at all. Get a shortboard or semi Gun I have a Michael baron 6'10" specifically for OH - DOH and beyond for when it gets really steep and heavy go find yourself one leave the egg terd shape for when it's ankle biters

 

Dont tell me what to do BOY.

 

im pretty jealous that it was that big down there. We got head high waves here and i wasnt impressed by the size. I wonder what their continental rise is compared to the rest of the east coast.

The key to handling bigger, faster moving waves is just keep doing it over and over. Experience and confidence are important obviously. Keep your core and legs really strong in the gym.

 

not being rude, but yeah. DOH beach break ain't the easiest conditions. Best advice would be don't drive all the way down next time. It was like 4' in vb, I wish I had that problem this swell...

 

foam is also your friend. I think getting into a wave faster because of more overall volume is more critical than the shape of your nose/tail.

Its amazing what you can do on a surfboard when you position your weight a certain way. Like Rick Cane when he surfed the ancient hawaiin skegless surfboard.

 

The difference is significant, and has a lot to do with the intensity level on OBX and lack thereof elsewhere. You have about 50 NM of shelf on OBX, and about 200+ NM in Brick. That is not the only factor, because if you look at this map, Cape May County would be better than LBI and points north, and that is definitely NOT the case.

 

cptn jack, what about hudson canyon? that funnels RIGHT into MOCO allowing deepwater swells to travel somewhat unimpeded compared to other locales'

 

No expert & never will be but would agree with some of the comments on here. No, smallmoneydochecanoe, that wouldn't be your comments that anyone agrees with.
MIS, Lee, Gaffer, Seen all have good points.

To add a very small amount to their insights: a performance longboard can be ridden in a lot more conditions than a lot of people think. Ergo, perhaps try that. Benefits: you can start your paddle earlier, get a lot of speed going, hopefully you're aiming for the ramp-to-shoulder & off you go. Yeah, you'll eat it big time & often on closeouts, everyone does that's the game we play on the right coast. But the board is maneuverable if you move your feet & it's fast.

One of my favorite boards is a 9'2 CI Classic single fin. It's been marketed by CI under various names over the years. It has "accelerated rocker throughout and vee out the last third." It's a really good board that I've had success with in everything from VB slop to well OH Hurricane Arthur swell. It suits a small dude like me (6'2, 210) & it's always a blast to ride.

Anyways, getting into waves earlier might also help you get over the psych101 issues of staring down into a pitching critter.

 

Not really. The swell still has about 90 miles of relatively shallow water (200 feet or less) to become significantly impeded. This is why the Texas Tower buoy (near the Hudson Canyon) can be 15 foot, and it's 5 foot on the beach.

 

Yup, this pic is over simplified, and glosses over all the canyons, but it answered CDSurf's question.

(I threw in the "that is not the only factor" part of my reply, cuz there's lots more going on, like Canyons, the nearshore steepness/grade of the beach, sandbars etc.)

Come to think of it, if OP really wants crumbly waves on OBX, I think Duck or other breaks Nags Head and north might fit the bill? I've only surfed once north of the Oregon Inlet Bridge, and that was "The Perfect Storm" in 1991. We managed to slip through the roadblock in Manteo, but nobody was allowed to cross Oregon Inlet. We surfed whalebone junction at DOH+ and high tide, probably about 15+ on the faces. It was remarkably easy. The next day, with less size and less water was much harder, as the waves were pitching more.

 

sounds like a mental problem,i get the same thing from time to time.u start paddling and ur brain says noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!! lol

that's what surfing really is is mind control.knowing u can do it.alcohol helps,just don't go out wasted and drown.this weekend was the first time I surfed sober in a long time and didn't surf as good as I wanted.the fear kept getting the better of me.when im under the influence,everything is less scary.fear is a disease.some people are lucky to be born without it.seeing 8footers coming down on me scares me.i wouldn't blame it on the board,i seen joel tudor surf triple overhead 2nd reef pipe on a log,get barreled and spat out.boards really have nothing to do with it,guys can drop knee on a boogyboard in 20ft surf and not have a problem.its a mental issue

 

I agree, it's really a mental thing. The board has less to do with it. That being said- it's best to be on the board that your most comfortable on for a the wave size.

You could totally ride a fun shape or longboard in doh... I remember years and years ago being in obx and only having a longboard... Well one day outta nowhere it was 10 to 12. I remember it being the best session in that height range that I have ridden. On a longboard. Old school single fin no rocker shape.

BUT the spot you paddle out at also has a lot to so with it and picking the right wave. The spot we surfed back then was breaking on a 2nd sand bar all the way out and peeling. This past swell was a lot of close outs... Which usually makes one feel like they didn't surf well- but it's due to the waves...

Any ways, just my thoughts. Keep it up and keep paddling out!

 

In OBX waves, you gots to start standing up as the lip starts to pitch, at an angle like Seldom said. You're gonna take a beating if you get up anyway, might as well not look like a feeb. I was out at Duck last century on a big hollow day. I'd get in a tube, poke my upper torso up and out the top, and wave to my chums as I ate doo. Tuck and roll surfing.

 

Thanks for this post. Glad to see it ain't just me. Good responses, too (gotta commit, for example, and one just has to get past the initial drop). Some day. Just got to keep at it and have fun keepin' at it...

 

I saw a older lady that appeared to be in her late 50's maybe early 60's drop in and ride what looked like 8-10 foot faces on a long board yesterday morning, it was big and pitching on the sets, so it's all mental. I second guess myself sometimes when I think it's a close out, it happens. When I commit, I accept the consequences and sometimes it works out and other times I get chewed up, just gotta roll the dice I guess.

The more I go for it the more I realize I have the stones, but the mind is telling me noooo the entire time, try and block it out or perhaps accept the possibility those aren't the conditions for you, no shame in that. When I doubt myself, I just get out. When I am feelng brave I say F it and deal with the consequences after...

 

You get scared in 4 foot surf without alcohol?

 

Excellent post bro! Nothing like the bite of a single fin pintail for tubes.

 

There is something to be said about the right board.

One of the previous post reminded me- every once in a while I see a few of these older dudes paddle out in bigger surf. Like maybe 60's or older. I always think 'they probably won't get and waves' then the dude paddles over to the peak. Sits and waits. Waits. And some more waits... Then a huge set comes thru. The dude casually paddles to the right spot... Slowly turns and effortlessly paddles into a monster- way deep.. And makes it! One thing I noticed- all these dudes ride is a big gunny shape. Like 7'6 to 8 ft with fuller rails and lotsa float. Man I love watching those guys!

 

I get scared stepping in puddles under the pale moon light

 

I was in Belmar like 10 years ago on a crowded October day and it was pumping,i seen an old man that resembled doc paskowitz,a really old dude like in his 70s,he jumps in the water,doesnt even paddle lol,the rip took him right where he needed to be and he dropped into a perfect barrel and surfed it like he was Gerry lopez.it was so funny because there was 100 people in the water and everyones lookin whoooaaa,then they see a senior citizen get shot out of the barrel.