Afterwork today- in MOCO, good and long peeling lefts. Chest to head. off shore. super fun. no one out. feet starting to get cold (I think due to the cold sand and pavement while walking in and out of water).
Got to the beach at first light..surfed through the high tide, sets were chest high, no one out. Wind picked up a bit on and off but it was fun. Just 3 buddies out. By 11:30am I was cold and the swell dropped some- wind went more north west.. I got my share and called it a day. It looked good right before dark yesterday but I just saved the gas for todays trip, glad it worked out lol
Yeah... that's okay. My session was still fun as hell. I took a long walk downtown and found some cool sh*t. Came back when the tide filled in and then caught some fun ones till sunset, thin crowd, lots of 'half-waves' due to inner section dumping, but there was a few nice peelers in the mix. Plus, the sky cleared up a bit and it got super trippy towards sunset. Lots of fish jumping. Great day nonetheless!
Yeah, swell looked gone around low tide, but there were still some waves as it filled in. That was a cold wind, though.
exactly. It's great living close to the breaks and getting it good while other just rely on internet forecasts, suckers.
I was last out on Monday. Got two sessions in. Seems long ago already. Tuesday morning, I almost threw the board on the car before heading in to work, but forecasts had it as pretty much flat all day. At noontime, I took my lunch to the beach, and low and behold, clean 2-3 ft with short intervals between sets. Fun, mostly longboard stuff. Slight offshore breeze, sunny, air temp 70. Beautiful. No one was in the water. So I sat in my beach chair eating lunch, watching the peeling waves, while mentally kicking myself for not bringing my board. Couldn't really enjoy the beach. Perhaps that's the "curse" of surfing.
Bro. And this is why, when in EMass on the good days, we paddle into the plus sets saying "For Liam!"
With the morning air temps and winds lately, we're getting to that point here as well. It's the transition period. Won't be wearing my shorty much longer.
Wore only a 3/2 but wish I'd worn boots. Wind chill. It took three hours afterward to warm up my feet!?
booots !!!! Yuuukkkkkkk! for the next 6 (!) months i will be surfing at 2/3 capacity....anybody know any boots that won't make me surf like i'm wearing hip waders?
Still coming in this morning fun as hell...two days of north swell with virtually nobody in the water. A lot smaller today, but hardly any wind. I live for this sh!t. before work this morning...
