a few snaps

Nice pics. I like that last one of the first post. Sic left.

 

Thought the same. Also thought it should've been a goofy fotter on there who'd have had more fun.

 

Not very emblematic of the day, unfortunately. Mostly it was more of pics 2 & 3, a lot of racy closeouts. Certain spots were working better than others but I didn't have time to check everything as I had to travel for Thanksgiving dinner...

Are you goofy Carter? If you like that left, you'd love it up here (on the right day). Unfortunately I am regular-footed.

I committed a major episode of kookery that morning. I was running around, checking what spots I could, trying desperately to find some face, and I put my knit cap on OVER my hood. When I finally chose a spot, I paddled out and this dude gave me a weird look. I realized why...

I paddled to the inside to take a little one in, and low and behold, a bigger set rolls up. I scratched back outside and almost made it over the wave, but had to duck through the upper part. While underwater, the wave pulled the knit cap down over my face, and, for just a moment, I was looking at my board through the holes in my hat, underwater.

I paddled in with a heavy wet hat in my mouth.

PS SwellinDeck/Max thanks for posting.

 

Nothing wrong with backside dude, I could do it all day every day.

Though, the day after this, I did catch a long right on LI that I am still reliving in my mind! Tiny wave but it was better than this closeout 3 second crap, and it just kept on going... saw some seals that sesh too.

 

No doubt bro. I hit rights on the reg too. Including the sic ride I documented in the science of hacking tread.

Was more saying that it should be a goofy on it because I wanted that rider to be me after seeing that face lol

 

Nah Slash I'm regular foot but ever since I started riding quads my backhand has gotten better but I still love rights most.

 

Why do you think your backhand is better on the quad? I like thrusters on the heel as I can really cut it sharp and I bury the rail like mad. Kind of the opposite for me.

 

Yup. Goofy too. Lotta nice real estate out there in front of him on that left.

So... What's better? Backsides u can lean way back into the wave, rail grab, and the cutbacks are easier, comin round to frontside. Frontsides of course you get to see the wave, but the backside cutbacks are harder. Of course, it is a lot more fun doin a backside cutback, cause you get to lean back and watch the buckets fly.

Reckon it's all good. Just different flavors. Hope we get some waves soon.

 

It was really good at my local, double overhead, and draining like Backdoor/Pipe early on. Rights and lefts.

 

That's an iPhone shot, and not a set wave btw. That one is probably head and a half.

 

I feel like the board generates more speed with the quad set up and that helps me trim better which helps me surf better backside. Now if we are talking lined up, point type surf in the head high + range then I would take a thruster, but typical waist-chest EC wind swell or waves like that left in the pic that are not real hollow or steep then I like the quad better.

Also I don't think I can bury a rail like mad. I'm more top to bottom flowing turns and looking at the pretty water and fish.

 

NO... Some people think that the rake and foil of a fin don't make much of a difference. For certain shapes that may be true. But if you look around, speaking of Rusty's single fin shapes in particular which Kerr killed Bali on, the shortboards were specifically shaped for the single fin. Also, if you're on a progressive shape with more rocker and thinner tail, the plugs/box will have a shallow depth or slight turn to provide compliment cant.

@Quads - there are as many different quad fin setups as there are thrusters. Some quys throw wider fuller outside and sidebites etc.. And again, the boards and plug/box placement make a huge difference. The 4-fin set up Kelly rides at pipe is not the same spacing and turn that is on your weido ripper or fred stuble. Once again, it really depends on the true shape of the board and what works for you.

 

that's called a Bonzer