i did at the real popular spot. wow. 6ft sets, clean, marvelous paddle-out interval.. lines long AND packed w/some ooommppphhhhh!!! crowd not a prob.
good for you, man. I think S NJ was the ticket today. I may give it a go in a bit. looking pretty small up in these parts. had to work this AM.
I surfed a very popular point break, first one out at 7am, 6 others followed. Got a bunch of real good waves, a clean up set came, washed every one into the soup, I never saw another one of them. Then like a switch the tide ruined it, and found myself wishing i got washed in with the rest of em. I called out of work and plan to surf again in a hour or two
Not yet. I have some kind of gnarly infection on my knee that's making my whole leg swollen, stiff, and very sensitive. Lots of pus blood juice came out of it last night and this morning. I feel super out of it too. I may hit the ER, after surfing of coarse.
After finding out at 11pm last night that I had off today, I got excited and put the gear together. Woke up early, had coffee, and checked the cam- the place I planned on going looked fun and manageable. The phone rang and all of the sudden, I didn't have off today. I just finished now, in time to miss every ounce of daylight. Watching the snow outside made it even harder to deal with. The forecast looms ahead like a depressive void. I am not sure whether to start drinking or go on some sort of enraged spree. I am lost.
Doing that now debating if it's even worth trying to catch a DP tommorow in MOCO no time to head further south than Malibusquan....
