Nucking Futz

yup. insane.

 

[video=youtube;iJTNZqdv6es]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJTNZqdv6es[/video]

14 year old surfing shippies

 

wow.
i see that and think of my own 14 year old boy.
it makes me anxious....
i mean, is that prudent parenting?

of course who am i to say.
but i've done both...big waves and have a teenager.
it makes me anxious.
and no not shippies
mostly hawaii and peru but...
i was there the day chesser died and chose to not go out....
makes me anxious.

 

I think it's the "steps" that make this an exceptionally beautiful wave, in essence waves within a wave. Fun to see how the face unfolds and shows its true features. Amazing. Anybody know the topography of this break? Any one dive there?

 

thats tazzie.
very very far away.

 

Wait, this isn't jersey? i figured I'd ask anyway, just curiosity I guess. I was looking at the topography and mechanics of teahupoo the other day and it's like 5 feet of water under feet, which is ridiculous given the amount of spit you get from above. So I wonder how this steps are being formed here..

 

Looks like rye NH on a small day.

 

shipsterns is one of those waves where it looks like the ocean actually eats you

 

you can tell that he was scared to death just by the way he rode that first wave



i don't blame him

 

Or when he was a shaky twig on the boat suiting up hehe. Man I'd be scared too tho.

 

I think its basically a rock shelf and the water gets pulled over the rocks makes the currents that make the wave inside the wave. I saw a magazine cover a while back with Shipsterns and it looked like the wave was breaking directly on a rock, not covered by any water.

 

Here's the link it was from a Transworld article.
http://surf.transworld.net/1000159780/photos/behind-the-cover-june-2013/

 

Dude is that a real picture? That's insane!

 

No, Shipsterns is one of those wave where the ocean actually eats you.

 

rcarter, I know we don't talk much, but have you ever been there? You seem like a dude that might have.

 

No way man. After about 1ft overhead I'm done. Shipstern would give me nightmares and make me ruin a perfectly good wetsuite.

 

Yeah but dude, that kinda sh!t has got to be on the bucket list. It's just crazy to see how far a human can go.

 

That photo is sick but that's not shipsterns

 

Yeah but if it's not, it's even better. That's like bare rock surfing, man. Looks like a new break though, no way that rock would've lasted a hundred thousand years of seasonal drop like that. That's a recent formation for sure. A volcanic one to that.