Mid-Life Dims (40+)

Discussion in 'Surfboards and Surfboard Design' started by JayD, Jan 26, 2015.

  1. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Hi all. I have been working through some growing pains...literally, over the past few years. Not so much weight (although some), but just turning 40 and trying to keep up with my HPSB roots. I am 42 now. 5'11" 190ish.

    I have surfed different conditions and all kinds of boards over the years but specifically wanted to hear about others in this realm. I am good when it comes to HH+ on my 6' 4 rounded pin or 6'7'' if needed...it's the dimensions of the "groveler" so to speak that I am curious about...for punchy smaller surf.

    I have experimented with 3 different shapes over the past couple of years and finally settled with what I call Lil'chunk! 5'11", 2 1/4", and 20" with a phat square tail on it. Single V with little rocker.

    Anyway, just curious who has been dealing with this "right of passage" as an aging surfer? Any thoughts on other options to consider. I saw various board discussions but wanted to hear from the journey men on this specifically.
     
  2. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    I had a 6'4" and that was all i rode. Got out of surfing for a while because I got married and moved further from the beach. But, i got divorced and got back into surfing. Since then, I sold my old 6'4" and started trying different size boards and fins. I went from having, 3, 6'4" boards with slighty different shapes to a 5"10 Dumpster Diver, a 6'1" Dagger, a 6'2" Lost F1 and a 7'6" Ron John. Using the different boards for the different surf has improved my surfing. Oh yeah, i'm 42
     

  3. Special Whale Glue

    Special Whale Glue Well-Known Member

    Oct 8, 2011
    25" wide x 25' long x 5" thick
    Death point tail and bananna style rocker.
    Contact Roy (performance boards) Stuart.
     
  4. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    Cracked me up
     
  5. Towelie

    Towelie Well-Known Member

    Nov 27, 2014
  6. RootDown

    RootDown Member

    17
    Sep 2, 2014
    i am in the same boat as you. height, weight, age. I have found that keeping it short, but maximizing planing area is the way to go for the groveler. I have been riding these 2 shapes in under head high surf:

    12.jpg
    5'8"X 21 7/8 X 2 1/2 low rocker, slight belly in the nose, to flat, to vee in the tail

    14.jpg

    5'11 x 21' 2 1/2
    low entry rocker, slight single to double. running as a quad. really good in under head high punchy surf
     
  7. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    How's the weather? Did you not read the title kid? Can't afford Roy's boards but thanks.
     
  8. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    That 5'8" looks cool. Guy that shaped this last 5' 11" tried to get me to go with a shorter shape but closer to 21" wide. Your 5'11" looks very similar...thanks!
     
  9. worsey

    worsey Well-Known Member

    Oct 13, 2013
    keep at the hpsb; at 40 you have 20 solid years of surfing shortboards still.
    just don't get fat.
     
  10. ChavezyChavez

    ChavezyChavez Well-Known Member

    Jun 20, 2011
    I'm fity-one and most days I ride a board with similar dems to Root Down's 5'11 only mine's a 6'0 swallow. However, I recently added a 7'0 mini log for ease of paddling into smaller surf. I know you said HPSB but it's worth consideration.
     
  11. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Yea...nearly 30 years now. One can only hope to surf "HP" for fifty! I hear you on the fat...I hit 200lbs once and totally freaked out. Tend to be in the 185-190 range.

    Chavez (have not learned the double quote in one reply yet), I do have an 8 foot fun board for those summer days. If it's not at least waist high I'm on that thing.
     
  12. raddadbrad

    raddadbrad Well-Known Member

    Jan 10, 2015
    Hey Jay Im 42 yrs- 180lbs all my boards are 30 liters thats my happy place enough float to get me in anything without sacrificing manuverablity. Ive being buy boards like crazy for the past two years tryin to figure this out . What Ive learned is the shorter the board the higher the fun factor but dont go to wide cuz the board slows down the wider you go, I try to stay under 20" wide and if I need more bouyancey just go thicker and stay as short as I can get away with. My board of choice in all conditions is 5'9"long- 19 3/4 "wide- 2 1/2 thick the board rips!! I think each liter is good for about 6lbs of bouyancey. Try 32-34 liters. Good luck I hope this helped. Cheers!!
     
  13. xJohnnyUtahX

    xJohnnyUtahX Well-Known Member

    472
    May 30, 2010
    Don't mind Doug, he's still trying to find himself.

    Is moving around the lineup or getting into waves early becoming more difficult? I'm same size, ride similar short boards and 2 1/4 is too thin for me. Especially in a wetsuit. Your boards sound around 30liters maybe less, I would look for something closer to 34l.

    If 2 1/4 works then 5'11 20" 2 5/8" would have you floating around nice getting into everything.

    I'm Looking at something similar to this for next board, check out the dims chart


    http://static1.squarespace.com/stat...b0f44dbfa238a9/1414079053644/GENERATOR-01.png
     
  14. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Yea...maybe going closer to 2 1/2 thick based on what you and brad say. The width on it is actually 19 7/8. I like the board but you are right...the wetsuit and the "dropping in a little later" than I would like some times. thanks!
     
  15. bennysgohome

    bennysgohome Well-Known Member

    Nov 13, 2009
    This sounds right. I wouldn't go wide for punchy steep surf just add a little thickness maybe 2 5/8 max. With thickness, you can always keep the foam in the middle of the board and taper the rails for more performance surfing but you can't do that for width.
     
  16. salt

    salt Well-Known Member

    Mar 9, 2010
    It's not all about liters of foam, it's also about planing area when it comes to paddle speed. Keep that in-mind. However, if you have too much planing area, and not that much rocker, we all know what happens on steep hollow conditions....Just too fast. I have learned this the hard way. It's hard to find the magic board.
    Anyway, to contribute to this topic, I am 40, and my sweet spot for volume is in the 35 liter range, maybe a little more with certain shapes. My shortboards range from 5'11" to 6'8", and they probably all come in at the same volume. I don't like to work hard too much anymore when it comes to surfing. I like easy. I have work/kids/wife/work/kids/wife to contend with, and surfing time is focused on catching a lot of waves and having fun.
     
  17. salt

    salt Well-Known Member

    Mar 9, 2010
    oh, and I'm 6'0" 180lbs.
     
  18. Losttsol

    Losttsol Well-Known Member

    517
    Feb 18, 2013
    I'm 6'0", 180lbs., 40-ish. I've been riding fish shapes (thruster hybrid styles, not true twin fin, fat boy rides) since my late 20s. I just ride longer versions now though. A little longer rail makes them more versatile to use if it's bigger and gives me more foam now that I'm an old guy. The board from that movie 5'5" 19 1/4", I used to ride at 5'8", 19 1/2" to give you an idea, but now I ride 6'0"s. Then I take the width and thickness down a notch from what a normal 6 foot fish is offered stock. I can't ride a 21.25" wide board, 20.75" is about max I'll go, around 2.5" thick. Volumes are usually 34-36L from my guesstimates going by WRV's stock board charts.
     
  19. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    I'm 45, 6'1 and 205. and I'm riding the exact same length as I was riding when I was 20. Only difference is the boards I'm riding are an inch wider and 1/2 inch thicker. For small waves my go to board is a copy of the CI Dumpster Diver that I made extra thick.
     
  20. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Sounds like most of us are in the same ballpark. I think I will go towards 2.5" and keep the 19 7/8". I love the rail on my board and will continue to pay close attention to it. As someone mentioned, it's all about having the most fun. Getting into the waves early to max it out is critical...which is why I started tweaking things wider and thicker. Thanks for feedback.