I got the best barrel of my life so far today! I've had a lot before but none that were more than a few seconds. The one I got today was at least ten seconds. Wishing wells Puerto Rico. I'm 6'8" so I wld think it was a pretty decent day in order for this to happen. Seeing everyone's face while I was getting shacked was just priceless. Just love the feeling, wanted to share. Don't expect feedback but some similar stories/spots wld b sick. Check the forecast for pr I'll b getting em for what looks like the next week or so. This is my fourth year here and never had the swell line up so well at this spot
That could be the barrel of your life, brother. You'll never forget it, that's for sure. I don't think I've ever had a 10 second barrel... ever. But if I did, I might just retire forever!
SO Jelouse bro Im pullin a diff tube to get as close to that feelin as possible Haaahaahahahaahaaa!!!
To me man, it's the ultimate. Being barreled is like being completely in sync with the wave's energy its crazy. A barrel for me that stands out as being memorable was the day at the local good beachbreak. An ultra perfect left was stacking up to a nice head high wave. I just paddled towards the peak, felt the wave pick me up, grabbed my rail and got the absolute best backside shack I've ever had. The feeling, the high, the buzz in my head, is maddeningly addictive.
Sweet brah! There are those barrels that you never forget... I bet that's one of them. I was just looking at pics surf in PR moments ago! Lol
