Leash Broke

I don't use a leash because I'm cool.

I rarely lose my board because, like John DeBella said aboot his confidence in defeating The New Yorker with the Big Nose back in 1988, " I'm that dang good."

I lost my board two Sundays ago, however. I was disappointed in myself. The twenty yard swim was testing, especially with the 5 mm of rubber keeping me buoyant. Plus, I almost got my board before it got washed-in. I was almost there, and then a violent four-footer sent my board to the beach. Though, that was my first real Ice Cream Headache of the year. It was kind of paralyzing. It was that dang good.

Hey, did I see some guy died in OCMD? Like, surfing? It wasn't life threatening on Tuesday. That's a shame.

 

hope not...

 

Yo Riley remember our last conversation FB and you said something along the lines of "don't go drowning out der in Monmouth and Ocean Counties"? Well that same Sunday you speak of I was surfing the point side of inlet...went for an invert on one the heftier closeouts...bailed my board instead of trying to land in the flats...the off shores pushed the board back under me and hog tied my right arm and leg in the impact zone...By the time I was able to get my leash untangled and make it back to the beach I thought I was boutz to die nagger...And I don't usually wear a leash...So I ax myself did you jinx me or was it user error....
No hard feelingz doe bawl...outlawz gotz to stick together if you know what I be sayin'

 

lol i can out swim you any day. just because your weak and feeble doesn't mean i am not. it not like a dont believe you but umm he was in ocmd you ever surf ocmd? if it was so big im surprised his board didnt break. you probably pulled into some closeouts and got clamped both times. i mean its not my fault you dont know what a close out is mis13.

 

Marias?? Puerto Rico??
**** man...we used to surf there back in the 1960's no leashes when it was 12-14 foot faces, lost our boards and ENJOYED the swim in!!! What are you talking about?? We body surfed in. No wetsuits to float us either.
I must admit though- many of us were swimming team members and could swim long long distances.

Six foot Marias.....please...a jacoozy.... LOL

 

6foot is the biggest wave mis13 has rode man dont be mean to him please a beg you you will only make him more angry, please dont make him angry!!!

 

6 foot plus proper, so DOH+, maybe you dont travel that much or know how to call waves

 

word riley,
I had some heavy situations myself.

few months back I was tripping on shrooms and thought hey whats fun to do on shrooms,go surfing!so I got all my gear up,put my floaties on my arms,grabbed my 17'0,and figured hey I might as well finish these shrooms.

so im paddling out,theres sharks, demons,god made an appearance,one of the 911 hijackers as im trying to get past them a legit 21.7 footer came tumbling down on me,I got pushed deep,horshoe crabs were holding me down,I got washed into a sandbar cave,god came back to me and said "u can doooo it".so I start climbing to the top and see all these strange faces over me and realized I was face down in a puddle in the parking lot.

good sesh

 

In FL, let it be noted.

 

You are right--I have never seen the inside of a plane. I am told there are seats--is that correct??
Whats is DOH+?? Is it a disease??

 

6 foot is now 10-12 foot?

Hawaiian or Delawarian?

So on SI, head high is 8 foot. And now 6 foot is 12 foot.

How big is waist high? Or what body part is three foot?

You know....when the east side is legitimately sizeable, there's like five dudes, per state, out. Yet on here, everybody rides the 15 Foot with no problem.

Wow, talented crew on here. I continued to be impressed and amazed.

 

^^^ Riley you're on point, good day sir!

 

I appreciate your confusion - Please be advised--I do NOT ride the BACK SIDE of the wave. So the Hawaiians can put their wave measuring system in the same place they excrete "poi".
I do, however, surf the front side, or face, of the wave. I live in USA- we measure in inches, feet, yards. I am 6ft tall; 12 ft is double overhead. Am I being way too logical in my thinking??
BTW, for those of you that do ride the backside of waves, you might be going backwards?? <grin>

 

i've been carpin 'bout dat for years...

 

cep is from new jersey.
i am proud of my fellow citizens.

 

It's all overhead if you can stinkbug well enough!

 

you can tell whos been where based on how they call surf

calling surf is different than measuring waves.
its not just Hawaiian, its Aussies, south africa, some Euros and the whole indo/pacific region.

but keep decrying it, I am sure you can change the culture

 

None of us are from Da Islands, Australia, South Africa or Europe.

Visiting a place or living there for two years and then lifting their mannerisms is insincere.

So, if I take a trip to Shark Cove, Oahu I can start calling practically every day on the east coast, "FLAT?"

You seem to base some of your self-esteem upon your surf travels.

So, just so I'm clear. They call real 12 Foot surf, "6 Foot proper" in Australia. Wouldn't they use the metric system as in..."Oi, Mate, Narrabeen's 3 meters, ya c-nt. (12 Foot-New Jerseyian)

Seldom, "Ya c-nt, was dedicated to you.

 

narrabeen.
the most frequent adjective consistantly used to describe it is: D R E A M Y .....
GOOFYFOOTS IF I COULD SHOW ' YA ONE THING.....its that.
(chicama takes a better picture than its actual quality of ride)...

 

Classic