who here has been surfing this week?

It's crazy, I probably surfed only 7 hours in the last 4 days and I still feel surfed out. Winter is getting to me.

 

yewww drove all the way hatteras and back yesterday lookin for the right spot. everything was blown out of control. south of sandbridge, it was breaking a mile out. although this was discouraging, I was in awe of the waves I could see outside... saw a couple lefts at Avalon barrel like the pumphouse for a while and just barf everywhere... never seen big outsiders like that spit so hard.
anyways I considered the trip a skunking and headed back to Virginia. had to be in the office by 1 and it was about1030 so I was hoping there might be something to ride north of 1st street.
took my chances, suited up in the crib, and biked straight down to my favorite random bar. was SO surprised to actually see a few peaks coming in, as the morning low tide had everything closing out.
paddled out and only caught three waves in about an hour, a left w a good whack, and two rights, one I pulled into and got worked, but with a sweet view otw down... the other... whooo that had to be one of the best lil tubes I've ever gotten in VB. STOKED. dropped to the bottom, pulled up, three pumps under the lip, and popped right out! amazing how ONE wave can make you feel like $40 and four hours of driving is all worth it. even if it's not where you wanted/expected to be. There are starving children in Africa... metaphorically speaking - eat all the wings you can.

 

From 11:30 till 1:30. Got a few rights on the outside north peak, and a few lefts south of the pack, then the tide made it real inconsistent and bouncy. I heard it is still going off, I'm at work. It was nice yesterday, not too big, enough waves to break up the crowd. I hate to say it, but those two guys on the SUPs were owning it.

 

Cheers Peajay, fellow wing addict here. Cracking up at the reference man. I haven't had wings in a couple of weeks but at least I can go get them by the bucket, any day of the week. The waves ... not so. But this week, our bucket was full.

I had a quick session before sunset last night. It was pumping, bigger and better than Wednesday. Wind switched to light offshore. Saw a couple of guys get absolutely shacked on a couple of f*cking beautiful waves.

I tired out quickly and didn't want to keep up with the current, so I tried to nab a couple while drifting. Poor choice ... I exited the water with a wave count of zero. Not so much of a surf as a paddle session, but I got to enjoy another amazing sunset from the ocean.

This thread is making me hungry for wings and waves. I hope we see two more weeks like this before winter's end!

 

they where but they were catching them so far out and early almost made me wish i had my brought my lb. piss off all the sbers but i mean there was a few party waves. has to be one of the best waves on the east coast.

 

Ironically, Reef Road is a street the break is named after, but there is no reef there, just sand bottom. I checked my local reef spot first, and it was going off like a freight train. Too much water moving too fast for a shortboard. Kinda hairball drops for a longboard.

 

yeah dude im spent after two days and 10hours of surfing. im arms are sore as hell.

 

Wednesday cleaned up enough right before dark, but was still funky. Had good size... long period sets coming in were solid overhead... but still a lot of water moving around. Needed another couple hours to really get good, but that would have been after dark.

Yesterday morning was unreal... wind was not a factor, and the sets were still big and super clean... barreling. I missed that... had to work. By the time I got out in the late afternoon the wind had gone more sideshore, and junked it up. Still some big barreling sets, but super racy and a lot of side chop coming at you on the rights, into the wind. Made it really gnarly, but at least you could pull in and try to doggie door out or just punch through.

The sets were still packing a punch... throwing out further than they were tall. Love that...

Cold...cold water. Cold.

 

Some fun dawnies this week. Lets see, highlights...
Just about zero crowd at the break nearest my house. That's rare. I guess everybody was surfed out from the weekend. I was sitting on the outside, looking back at the palm trees, orchard-covered hills, and city thinking what a beatiful spot to surf... Offshore with nice workable faces. Saw one dude get a nice duck-in barrel and come out clean. Decent size, maybe a tiny bit OH on the sets, but I was hoping for bigger. At the end of the session, after the sun had climbed high enough for the ocean to go from a burnished reflective mirror to a undulating carpet of blue, I paddled down to stables and caught a long right all the way to the beach. That was a nice way to finish up. Walking back to my bike along the boardwalk, watching surfers working the sets rolling in.

Fun sesh at **l***s*****. Head-high+, offshore, and super clean except when boats came out of the harbor and waked it all up. It was really firing mid-beach, but I was lazy and hung out near the jetty. OH+ sets were mounting up just off the end of the jetty for a fun drop, but they mostly piddled out after the drop. Only a handful of guys out. A solo bomb came through that everybody watched blow up on the outside. It was a pretty green A-frame, near DOH and perfectly shaped. Nobody on it, just glorious to witness. I caught a couple of fun ones off that outside peak, and a few racy barrels off an inside sandbar.

I missed one thanks to a guy caught inside. I dropped in, cutback, stalled high as it started to pitch over, was all set to drop into the pocket, but s--t! There's some dude in my line. Rather than run him over, I dropped too deep and ended up behind it and outside the curtain. Crap.

Got rewarded for my good karma later, though. Dropped in all by my lonesome on one beauty, saw it warping down the line, bottom turned, stalled deep in the tube, pushed down the nose and accelerated out clean as a whistle before the tube collapsed. USDA recommended daily allowance of in-and-out. Sick.

Uh... ate cereal and cookies afterward.

 

Checked in Friday night, too late to get a session in so went and had some incredible seafood and drinks with my wife. Got up before sunrise on Saturday, got suited up, hit one of my go-to spots, chest - head, with occasionally bigger sets. Wind was on it from the NNW / NW and it wasn't quite firing on all cylinders yet. It was drifty, chunky, but it had size so sometimes it would line up just right and would get a nice drop and it was a race to beat the section. Nothing to write home about but got some nice rides.

After a couple hours decided to go for breakfast and came back to my high tide spot in the after noon when it was mid - high and the wind had shifted and cleaned up. Started out kinda slow with a few mediocre slow rides on the LB, then it started firing and there was a nice chest - high glassy peeler coming every so often and was able to find a rhythm, mostly lefts but I did stick a solid right that walled up on me, I picked up a ton a speed and made a beautiful (in my mind) bottom turn and back up the face and set a high line and tried to beat the section but it detonated and i punched out the back. Sets were breaking waaaay outside so it offered seriously long rides, could go 100 yards left, turn, 100 yards right, nose ride into the reform, another 50 yards to the left and nearly to the sand.

This morning mid - low tide, waist to chest glassy mini barrels, if you waited long enough on the outside, was able to scoop up a few head high drops, rode some all the way to the sand, started out on my LB while the tide was still draining then switched to the SB when it started hollowing out some. Got some solid lefts and rights. There was plenty of closeouts with a 14 sec period NE sell to ENE facing beach, but when the 6 sec N wind swell started mixing in it started offering more open faces with real estate to work although more of a bump on it as the morning went on. Beautiful morning, sun was shining, brisk around 50 degrees at sunrise and water was chilly but felt nice. Had my own peak all morning. Life is good.

 

Today in NC but it felt more like Maine.

 

Barbados coupla weeks ago, then quick hit to ****, leaving for CR in 9 daze. PR long wknd in March, maybe back to ****, too.


By the time I get back, the spring swells oughta be on the horizon at the-place-that-shall-not-be-named.

 

Just wrapped up 10 days in SF. Got the stoke back. Was 75 and sunny each day. Got back in Carver shape and then some. Murdered the parks and streets both. Totally took the skate game to a new level. Got a session in before tonight's red eye too. Cats at the park were saying "Bertlemann" to each other when I was ripping 180 and 360 slides off the tops of 8' slabs. I had wheels sliding the whole 360 degrees then revert sliding and riding out. Never done that before and I was doing it 20 times tonight. Can't beat the fearless stoke during a session where you're not holding anything back.

Ate good food and pushed myself physically each day. Left that place a lot leaner than when I left. Can't wait to hit the scale when I get home. Really want to get under that 178 again.

Got 3 surf sessions in at unreal breaks including a trip to Santa Cruz. Headed back next weekend as I've got to be in Seattle for work right after. Good chance I relocate to the Bay Area even if it's for part of the year. That place is too beautiful, too full of things to get stoked on and too full of happy people compared to Boston.

 

Yankee, was that you that paddled out in the afternoon yesterday? I was the guy stoked on my new board. If only the tide would've laid back a bit more at the end...

Still a fairly fun sesh despite the cold