Big swell headed toward Puerto Rico

Nope. The persons I knew and surfed with had normal names. Keep in mind, I was there up until 1969. Those names you mentioned may have showed up after, way after, I suppose. Most of the guys I surfed with are dead, or disappeared from the surfing world.

 

And yet--you live!!

 

Here is Surflines story on drowned surfer at Tres Palmas:

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surfer-drowns-in-puerto-rico_122967/

 

I've never surfed in Rincon, refuse to drive for hours to surf with wiseguys from Belmar. However, my understanding is that the current can be a ***** - especially at bigger tres.

Also, is it possible you can be up in marias and accidentally find yourself in heavy dogman's or tres, on a big currenty day?

In any case, just because you can paddle into a big beachbreak, doesn't mean you should be paddling into a place you don't know well on a big day. Local knowledge is much more important than people think, especially on bigger days when the currents and breakers get funky.

Tres has claimed two people in the last two seasons, and another couple disappeared a couple of weeks back while SUPing.

I think that part of the ocean commands a lot more respect than it is given with comments "Remember, 12ft PR is like a walk in the park compared to Belmar!"

 

The currents can push you down to upper Dogmans but getting to lower Dogmans (further south, closer to Tres) would be a stretch. As I mentioned before, Tres when 10 feet is a soft wave. Tres at 25 ft faces, is a entirely different story. When I lived there, nobody lost their life there. With the popularity of surfing, and most surfers attributing high skills to themselves, fatalities are to be expected.

The current can suck there when a big swell is running. Most surfers travel to PR with 6 ft boards. Mistake. I always go there with at least a 7'6 gun, or larger. Glide is required when paddling in to these large pitching waves, just as any other place.

 

Ah dudez I had the absolute best sesh of my life at domes today...so many punts and barreled in the inside..my experience in PR wouldn't have been as epic with the vast amounts of knowledge shared with local spongerz..swells fading..winds are beating down..time to reflect on the stoke with a phat doob and some cold ones..more pics to come when I find some decent wifi

 

Such a fun wave! Good on ya.

 

Dudeski

Hopefully some more swell heading your way!

Stoked to hear about your trip and see the pics!

 

Ah I hope you dudez enjoyed the pics should be some swell filling in saturday DP before I leave..to much to sift through and post..remember Mr Doeskis experience wouldn't have even been half as epic without the great people associated with Pride BODYBOARDs and BOOGIE family

How aboutz that MISY...6ft Maria's..I did 10 at indicators..I think I might be done with this place..May peace and stoke be with you dudez

 

Man you got it good!

Don't worry- Belmar will be going off when you get back... Know you miss it

 

Ah Jesus all those peaks in monmouth county that get blown by the jock surferz are mine..I'll even cut you Jesus if you drops in on me

Blood and gutz

 

Dudez Domez was firing hard for the DP...back in SJ headed home...surfed out partied out and mellowed out

 

^^sigh. Nice. And enviable. Even the south is cold lately and my old heat pump has bitten the dust. $4k for a new one

 

Ah Ms Scare crow you know this hole trip cost 750$ total for err thing...good luck..I hear a warm spells coming tommorow..

 

Still in Rincon. Surfed Maria's in the AM. Was solid. I'd post some pics but don't know how to load them from my phone to this site.

 

Rincon Inn...above the lucky bar?

 

That's right

 

Ah dude did I meet you this morning..if you need erbz while your there pm me

 

Thanks but I'm not sure it was me.

Went by Domes today. There was a helicopter searching the area. Anyone know what happened. Heard someone was missing but it didn't look like there was a recovery.

 

Did you come in from belmar...names Larry..pretty sure I met everyone there
When I surfed domes DP Saturday it was pretty heavy...currents drift and back wash...quite the paddle out
I think people under estamate that spot because it can often be a very forging spot even at 6 plus but that's when it's at like 14 plus seconds..
Stay safe dude.. My mind is still in PR..crystal blue barrels..post sesh medallas and rasta vibes..