http://www.surfermag.com/blogs/cult...utm_content=4706017&utm_term=_1065086_1065094 If you didn't start before age 15 you shouldn't be allowed in my ocean. My beach My chicks My waves
The best thing to do is go straight to pipe when it's 10-15ft and get it over with. Also, especially beginners at pipe, make sure your board is 5'5" x 18.00" x 2" You can do it!
I work with a guy and his first time out ever he stood up. Guys said quit going straight and he starts going down the line. Next they said, why aren't you doing anything but going down the line, and he starts making cutbacks. All at the age of 35 and his first time out. But he is 100% German and they are special.
Puerto Rico has been churning out some amazing surf in recent weeks, but tragedy struck the Rincon area on Tuesday when traveling surfer Travis Fornei drowned. Reportedly a pair of surfers got into some trouble in the heavy water, when the 28-year-old from North Bend, Washington, was found facedown but alive. He was pulled from the water and airlifted to Mayagüez Centro Médico Hospital where emergency doctors pronounced him dead. “The waves at Tres must have been double overhead-plus and Lower Dogman’s a touch more. The current there can be a wild river while the waves grind the reef. Obviously they didn't know what they where doing and got into trouble,” tells area regular Oliver Bencosme. “One of the local guys, Adrian Garcia, went out to help and brought one of the guys in. In the commotion he didn't find the other missing person. Taino Divers called the Coast Guard and they searched and rescued the victim on the sand bar called Bajo Blanco in front of the public beach.” The surf was reported to be in the 12- to 14-foot range. More details as they become available
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vfq0bvVhQWw I was looking up that shirt, had no idea this song existed. Anyone hear this blasting out of a pickup on repeat in SE NC this summer, say hi.
I go on there once in a while, but I did see the article and then the comment, so.... Cut and paste time! HA