who here has been surfing this week?

Slash, I like that picture dude, looks cold as a mug but a good angle / perspective on the place

 

Sunrise session at my favorite Gulf of Mexico Jetty, Air 35 degrees, water approx. 59 degrees, light offshore breeze, clean crispy conditions, only one problem, was forecasted to be waist / stomach and turned out to be knee / thigh high, but I made the drive so I paddled out and got 5-10 waves and bobbed around waiting for the tide to changed and bring a window of those waist+ waves but they never came. Gorgeous sunrise and overall a good morning still. Bottle nose dolphin made an appearance, which is pretty common there.

 

great stuff D-SUP

 

Thanks Yank, just gotta make the most of it sometimes

 

Love your vibe dude. staying stoked man, hoping for some semi clean ones sunday

 

Fun day today. Woke up 4:30am, on the road by 5am, at the beach by 7am (sunrise). Check the Pier it's not very organized, head South and met up with a couple buds, spent 5 hours catching some really fun chest high chunky waves as the tide was filling in. It warmed back up a little bit so it was very comfortable in the 3/2. Almost didn't need one. The swell started getting more organized as the morning went on and there was a window where it got pretty consistent. Took the LB out for a few hours and then switched to the SB for the last 2hrs, both were working in the sectiony & peaky waves. Gulf and Atlantic all in one weekend

 

Fun waves this AM. Had to make it a quick session again. Only had an hour. Seems like for the past 2 weeks we keep getting week day waves on the days I don't have much time. Oh well atleast I'm getting in.

Waist/stomach high and really clean. Nice little A frames offering lefts and rights. The bigger ones were standing up a bit more, those were the fun ones. Waves died out a little quick but still offered enough to get a few turns in. Caught a few pretty fun ones in the short session and got to surf with one of the regular DP guys who I hadn't seen in a bit. Very fun morning! Tomorrow's looking pretty darn small but I think I'll try my luck with the LB. Been surfing allot but still feel wave starved.

 

I haven't gotten wet in 3 weeks, I can't wait to rejoin this thread.

 

Been almost 4 months for me. I was tempted to paddle out yesterday and belly ride a few against doctors orders but my wife talked me out of it. She's always been smarter than me so I relented but we had some nice surf this weekend. I'm suffering but soon I'll be back and I'm burning everybody cause I have a sick beard.

 

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Agreed Peajay, yesterday was sick! Meaty lumps just pouring in off the horizon, all f*cking day!

When I first paddled out, the crowd was a bit frustrating, but I expected no less on a sunny 40 degree Sunday. I paddled out for sesh number two, and the crowd had thinned significantly, and everyone out was cool as sh*t, hooting each other into these strange mounds.

I haven't seen waves like that in quite a while, perhaps never here; they looked threatening when they reared up on you but ultimately it was just a large bank, as opposed to a peeling quarterpipe. Don't get me wrong, at a different time of day, dudes were getting shade. Incredibly fun. If I could get two days like that each week, I would be so placated I could probably give up booze. It was the kind of day where I would be happy to be there, even if I was injured and couldn't surf.

I took a few good beatings. I had one that was a bit scary; I f*cked up the takeoff, and somehow, tumbling my way down, I got a fin thwack to the ankle, harder than I ever have. Next thing you know, the wave just pounds me into the sand on an inside bar. The fin caught me where the suit overlaps the bootie, and it still left a big dent mark in my leg, which is nice and swollen today...

How all of this happened on one wave is beyond me; I wish I had a video of this buffoonery. 9mm of neoprene and it still did a bit of damage. Sometimes, I'm happy to have rubber on.

Great day to be out there. This morning, it looked a bit small/fat, and I was hurting, so I skipped it. Good on anyone who went for the follow up today; it's easy to take a pass on waist high waves in 20 degree temps with 25mph winds, especially after a blissful day like yesterday.

 

if your passing hhi pick me up and ill go...seriously im not even kidding.

 

Yesterday late afternoon was my first day out in about two months. Overcast Air ~34F, water who knows -- SI said 40F.

After getting waylay-ed all afternoon, and given a small window of opportunity, I finally decided to just go for it, even if it meant not much more than an hour. Suited up in my domicile, and drove 25 minutes to my usual spot, which was a first (I usually suit up at the lot, but decided to be ready to "grab&go" upon arrival).

Trudged through a little snow in my 5mm booties (a lot slipperier than my snow shovelin' boots). Water was glassy with shifty peaks, maybe thigh-waist, some chest high. Light wind (<5mph, Westerly)

Was able to get into several front side that started small but jacked up as you went down the line.

Uncrowded -- pretty much surfed a peak w/ one other dude.

Stayed in until it was dusk.. didn't want to walk up the hill in the dark when the slush would get icey.

Got home, hot shower and warm bowl of chili.

Invigorating.

 

Got in for the first time this month yesterday afternoon at low tide. It was fun, prolly the most fun I've had since the December 10/11 swell. Having a sinus/ear infection the past two weeks and working outside in this brutal weather hasn't helped. Everything came together real nice yesterday.

 

I messed up and didn't make it out yesterday. It's been over a month for me and have been itching to get out, just couldn't make it out of bed. FAIL

 

Dude... I hear ya. My right ear is HURTING right now... every time I swallow it clicks and stabs pain into my face. I'm sure yesterday's session didn't help... but it just felt so right at the time!

I had just driven about 800 miles in the past 36 hours taking my kid on a college visit, and all I could think about the whole time was how good it would be Sunday morning, and that I would miss it. When I finally got back into town, I checked it at my local... and instantly got those jittery, anxious butterflies watching a guy drop in and get a two barrel wave right in front of me. I bolted home, dumped everything out of the truck, pulled on the rubber, and literally ran out the door and back down the street to the beach.

Just the slightest offshore breath of a breeze and dead low tide. The water was clear and green... the current was ripping down the beach... and the "outside" was about 10 paddle strokes from the swash. The waves were heavy for their size... only about shoulder to head high on set... but super fast and hollow, and breaking everywhere. I jogged up the beach and jumped in... and ate it on the first 2 waves... legs and back too stiff from the 5 1/2 hour drive that morning. Finally got a good one and settled in to a groove.

My wave of the session was down the beach from the pack, who were all dialed in and making it look easy... a long, winding frontside tuberide from the peak to the inside... white chunks of foam spinning over my head as the barrel pinched closed in the shorebreak. The world washed away in an instant, and a calmness flooded over me, snuffing out the anxiety of "shoulda been here this morning." Suddenly, I realized... I didn't miss a thing.

 

LBCrew how are you still so stoked?

You remember my, "Are you there God it's me Margaret" thread (early SJB period)?

Aboot getting older and bored.

Should one be serious aboot waves and live their whole surfing life on the east side?

I am not stoked at all anymore.

I surf out of duty anymore.

It's what I do, right?

The thrill just ain't there anymore. And no I'm not like everybody else on here, so living for those 20' North St days just ain't happening.

North St - Come over the bridge on 9th.....make first left........make right on 1St....head to ocean. North's a block over !!! Totally handles DOH.