i understand, and i am the same way. im not a chop hop person myself because if its a longboard day thats what will be riddin. if its little bigger fish day... 4-6 and awesome sb time. maybe 3 depends.. if i have to hop i change my board.
Late drop straight into a barrel makes me feel like I've got it all figured out. Only happens a few times a year but that's what keeps me coming back.
Clearly, you are the one who is obsessed. Keep my name out of your mouth, you pathetic little piece of s hit. Wish I didn't delete my PM's, or I'd pull your move and post what you sent me in the past. Seriously, go f uck yourself. and as I said before, I hope that f uckin choke moke breaks your jaw. You armchair radical, p ussy piece of s hit.
I'm a purest but nothing makes me feel feel more connected than finding the perfect trim line on the wave face. I find that, and all the other stuff comes naturally. When you find trim, no manuever is forced. and sections just get made. The things you do on the wave become actions to prolong the ride.
Patgeds, This could have been a cool thread if the trolls didn't find it. Trolls, could you guys stick to the other trolly threads and leave just a few alone? What do you get out of it? I'm asking nicely, i like the other stuff, i read those too, Its funny but it doesn't need to be everywhere does it? I can't be alone on this
A nice flowing figure 8 roundhouse to make it through the mid section reform, so you can drop into the inside baaaaaarrrrrrrrellllllllllllll - wahoooooooooooo!!!!!!! that , and a tasty comeback on this forum to issue a verbal smackdown, that really gets me connected....bit(hes!
You've made yourself into something that can't even join a thread without making it a troll fest. You are a harbinger of the thread kill. I've had a good thread going for a bit, I hope to keep it going the way it is. I'm asking you here publicly to please refrain from posting there. You honestly should delete all your posts here. Patgens, sorry I derailed. Its a cool thread.
I love diving through a huge fat wave when it's big. The kind where you are under for a while and can feel the energy of the ocean.
Swimming out in deep water during the Summer and getting the JAWS theme stuck in your head. Nothing makes you feel more connected than feeling like part of the food chain.
Ah you might be the only one who likes MISY You keep going.. Ah the only troll is MISY..pretty sure I've contributed more surf related content then all of youz..I mean for fux sake I gave youz guyz live updates from my PR excursion while youz were stuck in the North East Tundra..
Late drops, backside roundhouse cutbacks and barrels. A good barrel is like a reset button where all is right again! I totally get the duck diving thing too. Positive energy assuming you make it.lol.
Barrels,inverts and big rolls off the end closeout section. I also like resurfacing after a cleanup set, and the waters all foamy and fizzing, positive ions releasing.
Also paddling away from the crowd and the next set comes right to you. One of the best feelings is to have your choice of waves in that set before they all follow you.