who here has been surfing this week?

Today was FUN. Low was at 9am, at 6 I was checking it out and was in the water by 630, right on time for sunrise. Waves were about chest high, maybe a few slightly bigger shoulder high guys but not many. Light offshores in the 5-10 range. Sun was out. Even though it was 20 degrees out, kinda felt like summer.

Me and my buddy were the first guys out. As I'm paddling out the sun is a bright orange ball right on the horizon with purple sky's around it, occasionally getting blocked by these super pretty waves coming in. It was nice

Waves were really fun. Could of been bigger but was big enough. Glassy. Fairly steep and only got steeper with dropping tide. And FAST. Prefect peel, bunch of little A frame peaks with lefts and rights. After a half hour I looked at my watch, felt like I surfed a while session already. Wave after wave after wave. Then it slowed for about 15 min or so, got cold, thought about calling it. Than it turned back on and I surfed for another hour or so. Warmed right back up and got like 5 "last waves".

Now about whats got me stoked about this session, besides it just being a beautiful day. I wasn't doing any big maneuvers today, not like I got that much in my arsenal but that dosn't stop me from trying. Instead today was all about long flowing top to bottom turns, flying down the line. Syncing up with the wave and harnessing all this speed. Connection. As the tide dropped the waves started to offer little mini barrels. Nothing you could really fit into but I had fun and got some nice views trying to squeeze my body in there before the lip inevitably made contact somewhere. Muscle through it if you can and continue on your way. Good vibes, beautiful day, light crowd of all DP regulars. LBs stayed on one peak, me and my bud stayed on other peak on our shortboards.

Post session meal was just a banana and coffee. But tonight my lady is making some pasta jambalaya. She's got a really good recipe, girl knows how to cook. I'll be making habernero infused margaritas. Today is a good day. Hope all you guys got some waves too! Enjoy your day dudes

 

nice seshun report BassMon. be careful with them Margies, you'll soil your trousers. i plan to give it a look in a bit. for some reason up my way, a lot of spots are working better on a fatter tide.

 

Ah man youz guyz are getting me stoked..now the question is to break out work early or take my chances with frigid weather out there on that long buried island tomorrow AM..

 

Getting ready to head out now for a sesh....first place I looked was just TOO icy.

 

holy crap, that's Nature playing a f*cked-up joke, I'd say.

 

so there is 4ft swell here and the wind went offshore and i drove to the beach where it was onshore so
i went back home where its now offshore. idk what to do.

 

Consult with your firewire

 

Holy crap! Nice looking wave. I just wouldn't want to go over the falls and taking a header into that ice. That would definitely leave a mark.

I thought about going on lunch break and checked it out. The wind was just out of the north and the tide was a little fat. Still texture on it and talked myself out of it. I didn't think it looked good enough to freeze my balls off. Right when I was leaving wind went offshore but I lost my window. Started looking good when I left. Rippable faces with the wave not moving fast and some nice lefts. It looked refreshing compared to the usual winter death pits. It sucks I missed it because I'm just feeling better after about 3 weeks of kicking sinus infection/ear infection and cold.

Went back to work, got a coffee, finishing work and then throwing some back. Maybe there will be some leftovers tomorrow AM since the buoys are reading higher than forecasted. Hopefully someone is hitting it now.

 

Got some today! Had some leftover south swell back up in topsail again. Didn't get to paddle out yesterday, heard it was shoulder with some head high sets and barrelling good but I rolled the dice wrong yesterday and didn't get a window.

Anyways got some today. Rode the old fat kingfish. At 7'0" and 21" wide she catches the soft peaks up there nice. There was a fun little midbreak sandbar that would barrel if you stalled it just right. Got a few of those on the fatty and some fun lefts. Rode one damn near to the beach with a fun little end bowl section that got a little hollow. Had to crouch low for it but just managed to get the head dip. Really stoked because the wind was straight offshore! Didn't expect it with the wind being sideshore at the normal spot. Had it real fun with some of the local crew. Was probably waist to stomach and occ really weak chest. Fun till it got too mushy

 

Look at the Belmar cam right now..some HH rolling through..I'll be some wherez aboutz out there at first light..I think it could possibly be the coldest air temps I've surfed in..will report back tommorow..
There's some bombs out there hopefully some of youz are grabbin em'

 

Same here, my backyard wind sock was showing offshore, and the cams were looking good earlier so I was waiting for noon-ish for the tides to come in a bit. I suit up and drive to the beach and it's blowing on-shore..and cold...and I was considering the drive of shame back home wearing my dry wetsuit...but i'm all suited up, waxed up and ready to go...so i go... Luckily the winds swung around after about 30 mins and cleaned things up for some fun lefts.

Moral of the story: when in doubt, paddle out.

 

so of course at the exact time of day i had to be responsible the wind re-swiitched back
to offshore and the surf is quite nice and i missed it.

 

Bailed out of work as soon as possible today and got straight in. Perfect, racy chest high peeler and offshore, and only about a half dozen guys out. Not the session of my life, but super fun on the fish. Those boards are so freakin' fast... you just can't get those effortless top end speeds on a thruster without pumping like a mainiac. I was really digging what I was riding today.

Then it happened... About an hour into my session, my leash came off my ankle. You know... how when velcro gets really old it just stops working. Well... I pulled into a little barrel and didn't make it out... and didn't feel that tug that tells you where your board is. I looked around and sure enough, there it was, floating on the inside, fins up. Right in front of the rock seawall.

Now... I hate the rocks. They freak me out. I hate paddling around jetties... am always looking over my shoulder on a drifty day... I even get sketched out paddling out the rip. I do it all, but I hate it. And until today, I've never had a run-in with them.

A set comes and I'm swimming/getting washed in... trying to keep my eye on it. A bunch of people standing on the rocks... who are watching this epic fail... start pointing. I get into the rocky area, and I'm struggling to get my footing... slipping and slithering in between, around, and over these big jetty rocks, scattered around and piled up, half submerged in waist deep water... trying not to jack myself up too bad. I'm getting pushed and pulled around by the shore break which is crashing on my back and head, and at this point I'm really just trying to go with the flow and bounce/float in and among and between these rocks, slowly working my way toward where everybody's pointing.

I finally get to my board, now floating in knee deep water, grab it and walk up onto the beach to check the damage: The tip of one of the fish tails is busted open. Thats it. I'm shocked. EPS/epoxy, 6+6/6. An easy fix, but not today. I run back to the truck and grab another board.

 

Went out this morning to the home break. Semi clean 2-4s...good times but the water was freeezingggg and there was snow up to my waist on the walk up the dunes. No one lasted very long. Seal swam up next to my partner though

 

Were u at naval jetties?