Well here I go again, woke up early stopped at the store grabbed a cup of joe, halled azz down to the beach stepped out of the car and heard that sound of rumblings, not the thunder kind of rumblings, the rumbling you hear when that head high wave with offshore breeze hits the water, ran up the beach and could barely make it out cause it was still dark, just as I thought, head high and perfect lines. Finished my coffee real quick and paddled out still on the dark side but by the time I got out in the line up I could see good enough, surfed a couple hours with just a few guys out it was really good up until the low tide, then it was waist to stomach and still fun......and then the crowds. Oh I surfed with Betty, she was having a awesome time.
Was fun this morning where I surfed...wish I went a bit north after hearing from friends, but I couldn't help but feel a bit badly for the guys in the pic below...watched it for a while and nothing coming through for them...bummer...
Man L4T I swear LBI just never gets it like it used too..I went to Belmar to check out the DKwars that never went down and go for a boogie myself..Pretty crowded on the popular streets as usual..alot of boberz though.. Ended up at a nice little lefty some blocks south of eastern lines..that swell faded as quick as it filled in..I skated around and got some DD's and by the time I left around 1230 the wave height had dropped significantly..
OCNJ from 10 AM to 1 PM. 5 or 6 guys sitting on the peak at one jetty. Next jetty down, same type of peak, no one out. My bro in law and me had it all to ourselves the whole time. He on longboard, me on fish. I'd call it thigh to occasional stomach. Windy. Fun. Back to our regulary scheduled flatness...
Yea I agree Jawn...but it has it moments but seem fewer lately...a few of my spots the sand has been building up to levels I haven't seen in a long time. Need some of it to wash out imho...however...I started hitting a spot out of the way and been getting it pretty good on an off tide...buddy of my was tripping out over the surf this morning--he was in Bayhead. Pics looked good...
went out at noon today with my 8 foot sponge board (god i love that thing) and got a lot of fun waves. the hard offshore wind made the faces perch up a bit more down the line where it would usually close out at my spot. made the rides super long and fun, so i'm happy.
Oh yeah. We stayed in until around 12:30 when we were too starved to paddle out again. It was great tomsee you out there. I eventually stripped off some of the neoprene, cuz when the sun came out, it was just too hot. The crowds were like August crowds. I couldn't blame you for leaving, you got the best of it. By mid morning, the water started to get kinda choppy, still fun, but not as glassy, and the waves got more hollow. By noon, with the tide coming in, though the wave size came down a bit, they weren't so hollow. What a difference a day makes. Yesterday I was getting pretty killed out there, but also got some really super fast fun rides in between being killed. Today was calmer. I gotta try that night surfing you talked about, before first light. Will try to talk some of my posse into it. It's a pleasure to hang out there with you. You are an awesome surfer
from 9am to 10am got some really fun ones. I surfed like crap but good waves until the tide destroyed it
Today felt like the real transition into spring around here. The waves were fun especially early on but people laying out and hotels filling up was something I haven't seen in a while. Even though it felt awesome and I'm ready for spring (I'm sooo tired of wearing gloves) I think I'm really going to miss winter. A couple photos from early, early morning right at or before sunrise.
I went to my little secret spot which isn't a real big secret but there were only a couple of ppl. out and the waves were just as good...I don't mind surfing with ppl. but when it starts getting dangerous that's when I leave....plenty of beaches around to have fun. I really enjoyed surfing with you out there, your such an inspiration to everyone. Catch up with you later.
I was talking to my daughter yesterday about surfing and she revealed that when she was in college, about 10 years ago, she took a couple of surf lessons from a guy named (your first name) . I said, "no way!" she said he was a bartender at RJ Gators at that time. Was that you? Or just an imposter...
I missed the beautiful sunday waves (a chance to test out my new old 9' LB) thanks to a failed washing machine that leaked all over my entryway from the garage. I still plan on a maiden voyage for the log this week.
Early morning solo sesh at my local... late morning a bit further south, which was better but crowded. Water still felt cold... colder than the buoys are reading, but you know how that goes.
Late Sunday morning, in MD. Sun was just starting to peek out of the clouds but a stiff offshore breeze was coming up as well. Mellow clean waist high waves (long rights with the steep south swell angle) on the Mini Simmons. The water has jumped 5 degrees in the past week and i can't remember ever thinking that water in the upper 30s felt noticably more comfortable than was i was used to, but it did.
A little further north, but a popular spot. I can imagine how good it was where you were, based on the difference between MB and a few miles south of that. You must have REALLY scored.
Crowds were stretched from Belmar all the way through spring lake..alot of bobing spectators though..I preyed on a jetty I noticed a pack of LBers and mid lengthies on..Seeing three set waves unridden is a sure sign there's stoke for you to be had
It was fun yesterday. My choice of board was not optimal though. It was a little bigger and punchier than I though it would be, so I guess you could say I was under-rockered. Still managed a few really good waves. Got windy, kinda blown-out, and that was it.