who here has been surfing this week?

That's the price ya pay for those 23' bombs!lol. Water warmed up 10 degrees in a little over a week here.

 

I'd honestly take 55 year round. I find that's still cold enough to deter many. But refreshing like spring time rains for me.

 

Washington state...the PNW, breh.

 

I got out Sunday...and aside from a little feed the monkey quick sesh on my jury duty day, it was my first session in a while. We were at a S exposed spot, with a light W wind, just a little texture, and solid 5 ft sets. I knew the wind was gonna pick up, but one of my boys had already suite-ed up so we said F it and paddled out there. As soon as the tide turned incoming againe, the sets seemed non-stop and the wind was picking up.

Performance wise, nothing spectacular...lots of chop and drift, so I was just pumped to score so clean corners. My best wave was a left that I could barely see on due to wind/water/spray, had to go by feel, and was a simple steep drop into a closeout barrel. The swell was building throughout the morning, and about two hours in I got my last wave. Paddling back out I took two clean up waves on the head, which was fun, but at that point, I just wasn't into 5 in a row duckdives in 35 degree water for a short rides.

Changed up and puffed some chemdawg. My crackers got out and we smoked some more.

The highlight of the day was when we shifted gears to recon, and peeped this shorebreak spot with tons of potential. Like fast barrels big boosts long rides potential. Growlers. WInd was side shore now at aboot 15, and this place was still keeping some shape. Can't wait to score this place under the right conditions.

Had two Big Jilm sized pieces of pizza, buff chicken and sausage and peppers. Then a nice warm coffee, irie one time againe before the cruise home. Salty, crusty, sand in my ears, and a smile on my face.

 

We never see 55 F until May.

Oh sorry Peajay to tangent...

I surfed on Sunday too, SS !!!!!! Ahh, not as muy macho as up there, but you know. 3 foot little barrels spinning down the beach.

Visited future chemical dog in Swedesboro. Picking-up dog this Sunday.

 

The tide dropped out today at noontime, and the swell filled in to shoulder high on the sets. The wind, on the other hand, picked up to about 15 with gusts to 20 mph. The swell was from the north, the wind from the southeast, turning south mid day. My friends kid was on spring break, they went up to Ft. Pierce and got it clean earlier, and called me to brag, so I had to hit it for a bit.

I decided to go to my local break, figuring it was gonna be semi chunky no matter where I went. Since I had only a two hour window, and spring break traffic is nuts, it was a good call. I took my fish out. There was a guy in the parking lot who had a hplb with a 2+1 fin set up with a 9" Squirrel Cutaway. He went out and killed it, getting past the sections and making long long rides with lots of cutbacks and reentrys. It made me happy and mad. Mad, because my hplb is sitting in the garage, waiting for me to get off my a$$ and paint it. Happy, because seeing him rip,and he was at least my age, made me anticipate the day, hopefully this weekend, when I can take my new toy out to play.

I scored some nice backside pig dog drops that lasted about 6 seconds down the line until I could let go of the rail and stand up and turn. Every now and then, the hard south wind would hold open a left for a while. Only a few kids out, and well spread out with 6-8 wave sets rolling in on the regs. Lots of drift. Clear, warm water and sunshine. Hit the pool bar for a quick cocktail. Back at work. Life is good.

 

No but saturday its phucin on like donky kong hahahahahahaha

 

The biggest problem is it won't get above 55 until June, and might not see 60 until August.

55 degrees brings out all the girl surfers in this area. There's a surprising amount of them here. A couple of them are pretty easy on the eyes.

 

We're having crazy high tides this week. There is some clean swell but high tide has it all mushy. Even the longboarders were having a hard time. Should be fun on the early incoming tide but I'll be at work. At least I got some paddling in. lol. Not to rub it in but the waters warming uo quick here.

 

Yesterday was da bomb! I love days where the waves are much better than you're expecting.

 

Has there been any good swell in sc in the past 3 days post pics of there was I want to see.

 

Maryland got lit up nicely for the first day of spring. Shot these before surfing 2+ hours at a mellower spot down the beach. Really solid this morning...sun came out, glassy conditions. Pretty stoked!

 

Surfing early morning in the fog was a wonderful treat today. Enjoying the warm water, although Gotta say am concerned that it's this warm this early in the season.

 

Just finished a sesh in Narragansett RI. Decent waves for the LB. It was just good to get out. Heading to the cape now and gonna surf there tomorrow. RI felt warm today. 3.5 hr session and not cold at all. It was sick to do some warm snowy surfing. Its also nice to just get away on a mini surf trip. Even if the waves aren't huge, they're still better then what were getting up north.

 

it was bigger than I thought it would be. Also, got in the water at dead low. The waves looked crappy from the beach but surprisingly lots of fun.

 

Life is good

So after reading all ya'll getting the goods up the seaboard ( and I'm glad youze guyz are getting it ), I finished my errands and looked at a the cams and took my Wave Hog ( 7'6" mini Mal) to the beach just in case. Low tide was at 3 ish, and there was a GI Joe north swell coming in. My wife was all, "why don't you take a GI Joe
doll out with you." The incoming push was coming up, all it needed was another foot of swell to be rideable. Lots of tourists out behind the Marriott, enjoying the warm blue water. I paddled down to the mini peak, and there was two kids from Ocean City, NJ sharing a shortboard, trying to catch some waves. I let them borrow mine, while I got some body surfing in. They were stoked how easily it caught those little dribblers. "Wow, this thing is fast!" one of them said. (It has an ironing board rocker and is 3.5" thick). We had a blast catching waves and talking story. It is always good to get wet, catch a few smooth ones down the line and share the stoke. Life is good!

 

It always seems better once you're out in it, for some strange reason.

 

Just a great day

Saturday turned into a really nice surf day for me. My surf partner and I rolled an hour up the road to the secret inlet for a morning sesh. The forecasts weren't all that promising but we hoped for the best while expecting the worst. The fire red sun poking over the offshore fog bank greeted us. Knee to waist high clean lines, light offshore wind, a few fishermen on the beach, nobody in the water.

We had the place to ourselves for over an hour surfing the shorebreak. Waves were getting bigger and rides getting longer despite the rising tide. The fog crept in and remained until midday eliminating the glare of the sun. Gradually people came and joined us in the water. I don't think there was ever more than a dozen out at a time. We were all strangers of various ages and skill levels just sharing waves and stoke and having fun. The unintentional transgressions were quickly forgiven and everybody was just cool to each other. The waves got bigger and the tide dropped creating some nice chest high peaks further out near the jetty rocks that could be ridden all the way to the sand dodging the tourists along the way. The sun finally came out revealing the crystal clear warm turquoise water we were surfing in.

All good things must come to an end. After six hours in the water we were both out of gas. We had only planned on staying an hour or two but got much more than we bargained for. Thoroughly spent, some herbal libations for the ride home capped off this wonderful surf session. Good waves. Great company. Fond memories.

I wish all of my days surfing could be as fun as this one was.

 

Good for you, but we don't surf.. We just post on SI.....

 

o barry