The Stoke/Frustration Thread

I got ejected or rejected this morning..maybe a slight bit to hungover and irie to do battle with those drifty shifty peaks..As I let myself wash to the beach like a tiered sea cow..I sat there for a good 20 minutes wondering what to do with myself.
In this time frame I witnessed two other dudes get the same business. It was a battle out there early mornin'. It made me feel a little easier about the situation. About an hour and half, a cup of coffee and a PEC sammich later I decided I'd head a little south of my location passing many spots firing along the way. The sights and my satisfied hunger had me feeling positive. Plus a couple kisses from Mary Jane, I really like her. The spots working real nice. Fat barreling lips with a nice ramp every now and then. I found some shade but also took a fair share of beatings. All in all today was pure stoke. Straight up firing out therez in NJ today

 

I rose up before the sun..feeling good
Drank a proper cup of coffee..black..and took a ****
Fried up some pork roll through it on an everything bagel and hit the road..
I was expecting to hit the sand and see some some HH action in the water..a slight disappointed in the size and conditions but these things are expected..I had a two hour sesh on some nice little lefts..not a lot pitch in the lip so it was a rail game day..I headed back to the hood and stopped at a diner got some lunch and decided I'd meet my boy at the park and get blunted..we had it all to ourselves for two hours..as the sun sets and I sipz upon the Dirt Wolf I reflect on today's stoke..these are the kinds of days I live for

 

sounds like a good day for you but how did you get lefts? that swell was cranking from the south.

 

Malibusquan Inlet..hmmm which side..

 

Frustrated: I am at work right now and the incoming push could get juicy.

Stoked: Yesterday pm, incoming push, clear aqua water, an old local (69 years old) his daughter and his son, who I've known since they were knee high, now they are full grow shredderz, were the only ones out. It looked flat until you got right there, still looked flat but there was the two of them in the water on boards. Then a little NE swell would ricochet in, wedge up and a waist to chest high quickie would form, ending up breaking on the beach. Got a few nice adrenaline filled rides while hooting and chatting with old friends.

 

Stoke: Three day weekend starting Friday. Pint size swell for some body surfing Friday. Some punchy New Jerseyian three's and fours Saturday. Some barrels and perfectly lined up close out sections. Rode the new lid and totally forgot how much fun a bat tail is. Had about 5 hours of water time and post sesh taco's and beer.

Frustration: Tourons clogging the streets cause there lost. Beach badge checkers...real surfers don't need no beach badges. Hords of people swimming and being speed bumps. Ah and those cool bro life gaurds...sorry dude I didn't hear your homer sexually advanced whistle call. Twenty something days and counting...