I spend a fair amount of time in PR and noticed this winter that on the truly big days there were a disproportionate amount of old guys in the water.
We don't rule. We suck. We have hair growing On and IN our ears, we are cantankerous, grizzled, ball sack hanging low, miserable bastards. I go to the gym to swim and all the 20 something hotties catch me staring and look at me like I'm the old pervert from Family Guy. But I can still surf so I got that going for me.
I *wish* I could get my ballsack to hang. Mine looks like a coin purse or half a walnut shell. 20-year old girls? LOL. It's like I'm invisible now.
Doesn't matter man. All girls have ESP with their noses, they can smell money. If you don't got ,you won't get. Keep on truckin!
Age is but a chronological benchmark. 59 and still ripping - farts! And the occasional head high right!
bustin airs and "floaters", eh? I'm 55, and I have friends my age who still skate, one of them in contests. They all still shred. For real. I gave up skating years ago, and my level of surfing is not up to theirs. The flip side is I've seen a couple of buds with broken wrists, out of the lineup for long long time. Healing takes longer. Rehab takes longer. Surfing gets my stoke, but if I could still skate without eating pavement I'd do it.
yea that's why I stopped skating.too many close calls,moving,and just growing up lol.its not like surfing where u have to go to the beach searching for an empty sandbar.u can skate anywhere,its just do u want to feel the pain lol. any of u semi old folks remember the "soap shoes"?i think that's what they were called,they had a thing in the middle so u can go slide down a rail.i did that before the skating thing and it was pretty raddabrad.I think too many kids broke themselves in half so they stopped making them like 15 yrs ago or something.
Started surfing 2 1/2 years ago at age 57. It was one of the best things I could've done. By that time, I had already tried, accomplished, and a few times failed in a number of different endeavors. Age and experience gives one a better overall perspective of the relative importance of things. Learning to surf in one's late 50's is no easy task. It's a whole different thing than one who has been surfing for 40 or more years. Not sure if I'm sorer from the paddling or being thrashed about. Probably more of the latter. I have found that in surfing one can can very quickly be made aware one's limitations. I'm no kid anymore, and at times this can be hard for a guy to admit. I surf year-round, and in my mind I still feel like I'm in my mid 20's.
Think of how many MILES... how many hundreds of thousands... maybe even millions... of paddle strokes a guy who's been surfing for 40 years has put on his shoulders. Your joints only have so many miles in them. If you're lucky, and are blessed with good genes, you've got a few more miles than somebody who isn't. In the end, you have chronic shoulder overuse wear and tear to look forward to. My brother-in-law... a real waterman by anyone's standard... and the guy who pretty much taught me how to surf and to build boards back in the 70s, literally quit surfing in his 60s to take up kitesurfing exclusively. Smart man...
I did the opposite, played soccer for 40 years and have a wrecked knee to show for all that mileage. Took up surfing "full time" when I couldn't run any more. Needless to say I'm totally addicted and don't have years of wear and tear on my shoulders. Into my 40s and 50s I kept finding things I could no longer do on the soccer field that use to be easy but with surfing I was actually getting better each year. Unfortunately age will rob me of that too but for now it's all good