Setting up to be a fun day boys!!!!!

waves sucked today,really disappointed woke up extra early since I knew size would drop by noon,showed up at 8 to see sectiony 3 footers closing out.i guess there was a big bike race I seen more bicycles than surfers

 

so i guess you didn't paddle out

 

Yea was fun today! Went out at noon- nice little peelers with just my buddy and I. He got a new board so he was stoked. Wore the 4/3 but could feel the cold on my legs.. Can't belive the wAter is still 40... I was fine on the top.

Love the days with offshore 100mph wind...

 

Sorry for any hype thanks to my pictures of last week.

H20, you got me stoked on the heavy offshores, but nuclear blast WNW winds & a S swell just don't work well 'round here.

Wind was a mess, I didn't see anything before 9 am but the rest of the day looked like blown down near-sideshore closeouts. Size was there early but too much wind, too much West in it.

I had sh*t to anyway so I waited for the evening, hoping the wind would calm down. It worked out pretty well, me and a couple guys only, waist-occasional chest, with the rights actually working for once. I am such a sh*tshow on rights, haha, but I caught a couple good ones.

All in all I think the Jersey boys got the best of this one. Which is fine by me, cause we had three straight days of fun last weekend. Everyone knows NY is better than Jersey usually so it's okay for once ...

 

I passed on it today... and I'm ok with that. Would have gone if I could, though...

 

Swell all week in Florida plus trunk water, I'm not complaining...

 

westuite.

Glossary addendum.

Happy Easter tlokein!

 

It was fun for a couple hours right after dawn. Offshores started out pretty strong, but a bit lighter than what they became a few hours later. They also started out without the dreaded North component, so it had none of that weird side wobble it developed. I guess everyone slept in, because there were few takers for the dawn patrol.

The bigger sets seemed to stop coming right as dead high approached. That's about the time the wind got even harder, and started getting some N to it.

Not epic by any means, but fun in my book.

 

Beautiful shot...

 

Saturday, huh?

I don't know what planet or section of New Jersey people are in, but Saturday morning became mucho windiness by mid-morning. My spot was actually pushing 5-6 foot(New Jerseyian).

However, that wind was pancaking the friendly waves. Plus, this swell was engaging the outside bar, so some deeper water and the winds made for Bisquick pancake waves. My God, the wind even made the waves reject me. Like, I dropped in, and then the wind said to the wave, "Eject him, man."

But it was interesting at least and there was NO ONE in sight, which of course made me a target for returning Cape Cod sharks swimming up from Jacksonville.

"Well, we winter in Jacksonville."

 

Golden........ Bravo sir.

 

Thanks, but really just dumb luck, I'm definitely no photographer. I frequently paddle out at or just after dawn. I have a lot of lazy friends. I got in the habit of snapping a few pics before I paddle out. I text the best one to my buddies to try and get them to paddle out.

Worth noting, swellinfo was pretty much nailed all teh details of this one spot on. Only thing I would nitpick is once the wind is predicted over 20mph sustained, I think it should go blue not green, but I may be a minority group in my thinking on that.

 

trust and believe dude,u are no different than every other photographer in nj.only kooks say hey im a photographer pay me.im not insulting u btw,im just saying these people who charge 200 bucks for a flick like that vs somebody taking the pic themselves is more valuable.the only people who cant take quality pics is sober alcoholics because they have the shakes,although the new camera technology image stabilization fixes that lol.

and pics can be deceiving.that pic looks like some good waves,as it was probably the best wave that rolled in 2 hrs.I spoke to some of my other surfer co workers at work today and they all said the same thing,shoulda went south.north sucked Saturday.but it was still fun getting wet so im not complaining,mother nature isn't predictable with her queefs.

 

....

 

....