I'm an expert at having fun out there, and my skills fortunately continue to progress, making it even more fun. I'd have call myself advanced at this juncture. Been working hard at it for some time now.
Sure, it was mentioned in Spicolli's LB coming out thread but it's pretty simple once you get the motion down. 1st you want to get as much momentum as you can going into the duck dive, as you are getting closer to the oncoming wave, slide your entire body up to the nose, I try to get my knees under me so that all of my weight is on the nose, rather than staying laying down and spreading the weight distribution, once my knees are under me at the nose I grip the rails and I put all of my weight into it and I do a push up motion and I drive the board down with all that I have extending my arms, while doing this try to do a scooping motion with the board by pushing one rail down first followed by the other rather than both rails at the same time, it's a subtle but important move. LBCrew does a good job of explaining it that thread, might wanna go back and see what he said too. Main thing is to get all your weight on the nose, let the wave just roll over you and then quickly get back to paddling as you will be right at the surface when the wave passes. If it catches you and pulls you back just hold on and quickly get your hands back in the water to stop it from pulling you back so far and continue paddling right away. 60% of the time, it works every time.
hahaha. I know what ya mean. I didn't get to surf much this winter due to injuries so I've had a couple rough sessions recently.
YO !!! Did you go this morning or was it pregnant(morning sickness) Should I go after work? Guys thanks to y'all I have become responsible and didn't ditch work today to surf. I feel just like Ward Cleaver. Real surfers don't work.
I can handle one foot slop. I also can handle three foot glass. I draw the line at big boards and long periods. Hey dude, you surfing tomorrow Nah dude, the period is wrong. You guys and the periods. I've drifted from 25th St in Surf City to 5th St. in what I'm sure some of youse would call DOH. But it was 6-8' which is the biggest Jersey gets besides Hurricane Gloria and certain Halloween storms. I'm advanced. Experts are Ben Gravy and Rob Kelly, not Noonan or any of those North Jersey ***s. There are no experts on here. You should be on tour then.....
yes i went, yes it had morning sickness, yes i put in a 2 hr sesh and........it sucked. solid 5 ft sets but 2 swellls lollygagging each other....hard to find, line up and ride. phooey. ward meet grinch. having said that...yes i think you should go after work cause looks like no surf for a while.
Having almost getting washed into the rocks today and being super competitive with myself I would say under beginner, but I know I'm advanced I just get myself into sketchy situations often cause I get wave greedy. I will never stop pushing myself until I can't surf so progression is a constant. Then again all of these categories are subjective, one could say there are only a handful of experts in the world and just below them is highly advanced. You can always learn and become better.
Yo, it's looking killer right now. Just checked the cams in B!tch Heaven and OC. Dropped a lot but it's doing it now. Baddy, early isn't always better. You should sleep-in. Well, a'ight. Going to burn one and surf. Less than two moths before the summer starts so y'all enjoy the quiet empty beaches for the next month. If you surf in the winter in crowds in jersey then you might be 'traded.
Oh, I think some of y'all don't know what advanced is. Little Ricky don't drown if you go tonight. Baddy, did you drown?
Hey Riley, can you give us a breakdown of your definition of each skill level? Since everybody's perception is different, just curious, what yours is.