who picked beginner

Big Willy Styles, this is how jaded I am:

Yesterday saw buoy 7@11 all damn day. Looked at cams, saw mediocrity but still hustled in AM so I could take a PM work break. Drove to the break. Saw a false oasis of what I thought were surfable large beach break sections in between a sea of soup. Stepped out of my truck to realize I was so stoked at the crib that I'd put my wetty on backwards again. Hopped back in truck to remove wetty quickly so I don't end up registered and subsequently put both legs in the wrong way again. That's how stoked. Those XCEL 5/4s can seem symmetrical at times.

Then once I got off the short bus and put it on correctly, paddled out on a 5'8 fish into that mess. Basically got paddling practice for an hour and searched like hell for reform sections to get over the top and out back. Reform is your best friend on a very choppy day in bigger swell. A reformed wave is kind of like a still young female divorcee - she's repaired herself after breaking and just wants you to take her for a grand ride.

Had enough of choppy break management practice and hit the break down the road that has different tide preferences yet still heavy onshores. It was somewhat cleaner but still messy as hell with mad current and a lot of water moving from a higher than normal tide. Ended up catching a head-high air drop on a left that I got down the line fast on. Made everything worth it.

That's how jaded bro. Still stoked.

 

Simple bro. People fear that which they don't understand. I'm an abnormal cat to the fullest and in every way. I learned long ago that the world either loves me or hates me and is never indifferent to me. The hate is not about me - it's about them. I focus on the stoke and those who embrace me.

Then I go out for a rip!

 

that's what the dredging does!!!

il try to explain it as briefly as possible,maybe they dredge up there idk,hopefully for your sake they don't.its a nightmare.

so we have million dollar houses 30 ft from the water.we get winter storms and now those houses are 20ft from the water.rich people panic,army core of engineers come in.the put a ship out in the water maybe a mile out or less.they run a pipe from the water and pump all this sand up on the beach.bulldozers come and even everything out.

now lets just say theres an 8 ft seawall between the road and the sand.after the dredge,that wall is 3 ft,that's how much sand they dump.

now what this does to the waves,(they don't put sand in the water,just on the beach),u have this high amount of sand,lets say 6 ft,and the sand in the ocean is the same as it was.now u have a 6-8 ft drop off,3 steps into the water.teens wade out into waist deep water and now they are in 8ft of water.somehow they die because they don't swim right or don't know how to swim idk im not the medical examiner.

now how mother nature gets the last laugh.they pump all this sand up on the beach,big swells come in(victory at sea days),it washes the sand off the beach back into the water and creates sandbars.now we are back to good.hurricane sandy was the best thing to happen to the beaches.the sandbars that storm created were the best iv ever witnessed.and the following summer they dredged again.back to square one.

 

Lol no cep, I was talking about how Hawk said that the dredging practise can "drown kill" teenagers

 

oh aite lol,do they dredge up there?along the mid atlantic they basically dredge from ny down to va,don't know if the obx gets dredged,im pretty sure they don't and that's the reason the obx has the best waves

 

While this may be true, almost everywhere on the east coast is still better than DE.

Well, except for GA.

 

OBX has (arguably) the best waves because it's the furthest East point on the East Coast...less continental shelf = larger more powerful swell. This also makes it so that no matter the swell direction, they still get the full force of the swell.

 

You sure bro? Take a look at Cape Cod...

 

OK I'm wrong about it being the furthest East, but it does have less shelf than most if not all EC spots. It's also prime for picking up swell from any direction.

 

Maine us even further east but we are talking about max exposure to swells I would assume. Then again, this could be a longer and more scientific debate in that case. The amount of continental shelf is obviously a huge factor. Anyone have resources listing variance in shelf along the EC? Let's not forget about the offshore canyon in Jerz. Negates much of the shelf effect seen elsewhere I would think.

 

Well I think some S FL spots can and do get better (if that's what we're talking about), but they're very fickle and aren't even rideable most days a year. I think OBX and Central FL are the EC's best, most consistent areas overall.

 

I thought we were talking bout wahines...

Thursday what you hittin on tread

 

What makes you think what I just wrote wasn't about wahines?

 

LOLZ!!!!

Georgia belles won my heart long ago for EC wahines

 

Cape Cod may be further east but the shelf is much shorter in OBX

 

How about DR and PR? Was thinking about that last night.

 

This isn't a thread on beginner boards??? View attachment 15380

 

I try to do this. Sometimes it means I don't catch many waves but at least I try. I love it either way!!