opinions on localism

i like to do a few seshs in the tanning bed before i go on a surf trip, a couple cycles of D Ball, and I hit the squat rack and bench pretty hard for like 6 weeks prior. i work on my Spanish and perfect my accent too. then i immerse myself in Latin America and blend right in with the locals. No problemos, BRAHHHHHHHHs.

 

Hey we've got the surliest locals in the world here in Oregon according to this guy!

http://www.slowburningdreams.com/a-strange-anomaly-of-negativity/

 

Nah, this guy was shorter than that

 

A few thoughts thoughts.

1. The true locals at a spot generally know who the other true locals are. If they don't know you, you are on the outside hoping to get in. That's just life. Get over it.

2. In my 33 years surfing actual instances of localism are very very rare in my experience.

3. Most instances where an outsider thinks he's being treated poorly because he isn't a "local" are the result of that individuals cluelessness in the water and have little or nothing to do with actual localism.

4. Good surfing is respected almost everywhere.....while kooks are only tolerated at a very few select locations.

5. A smile goes a long way in any lineup.

6. The biggest D-bags who act like tough guy locals typically are inlanders who took up surfing later in life, can't hold a decent job, live in a rented ****hole apartment and are just generally miserable human beings that suck at life. Ignore them.

7. Surfing isn't like the kiddie rec soccer program in soccermom-land where everyone gets a trophy. That's life. Get over it. If you want waves and if you want respect in the water.....work on your skills.

8. Give respect, get respect only goes so far in the water if you suck at surfing. See point #7.

 

Must have been a super secret spot. LOL

 

This is perfectly stated...especially #7

 

I told you where I surf. Start joining me at my spot. Stay away from the pier, 9th, and 25th. Too crowded for no reason.
I am honestly shocked it was that busy yesterday. Cams looked rather boring.

 

I had a random tourist ask me if if he could borrow my board to try surfing, and he offered me $5. I told him no, because it was low tide and the waves were breaking on the beach. He probably thought I was being a d1ck, but I was really being truthful.

 

I'd like to add the following:

9. Spray painting inside joke messages like "show up blow up" or "frothin so hard" on the bottom of your board says you're cool and probably local
10. Smoke a ton of reefer and share it...Insta-local status will be granted.
11. See number 7 again.

 

full high tide brought some size..choppy junk..cams are kinda decieving at pier..that area southward is now on a downhill slope ,midtide the waves are breaking uphill almost..swells break reform and break again...so for size it is hard to judge on camera as you are looking downhill almost..wave form u can still judge.,,yea pavillion is a wreck now,,even tour buses unloaded people to pour onto the beach...lma ride down that way tomm maybe and scope out that area see if theres a place to park....some scenary on the beach is nice but human traffic like a subway station isnt what i enjoy....i dont remember it being that crowded last year...

 

It has been posted here, but I will reiterate because it is very important. If you want to surf places you are not a local and get waves and not get hassled. a smile goes a long way. And a respectful attitude, and some patience.
Don't expect to paddle right up to the main peak, and catch a set wave right off the get go. Ease your way into the peak. Warm up off to the side, so people can see you can surf. Then drift in, wait for a set or two to clear out the alphas, and one will pop up with your name on it.

Sebastian Inlet, 1st peak, in the 70s and 80s was a gladiator pit. We used to drive up during the summer when its flat down south, and we would get regulated. I witnessed a couple beat downs, broken boards, etc. My buddy smashed Matt Kecheles nose while he was rinsing off in the shower once. Snuck up and totally blindsided him. Good times.

 

What if he offered you $50 and a cold beer?

 

This is pretty on point, especially numbers 3 & 4. I was going to write pretty much the same thing you did. The times that I had problems were when I was still a beginner/beginner-intermediate and unintentionally got in peoples way, blew good waves, etc. Caught some verbal sh!t here and there, but that was about it .

You're right about the guys who are out all winter, surf all the time...I find that I and others that do the same get our wave count. I find nowadays I get frustrated with the clueless fair-weather surfers and turons who drop in AFTER I am up and have looked them in the eye and hooted (and they keep paddling). I will say something to you then. Other than that I find locals/competent surfers just take all the waves they want. If you're not in that crowd, you get the leftovers whether you like it or not.

 

Yeah there's some wacky stories about the Seaside thugs. Apparently Billabong or someone had a gang of people up here several years ago doing some videos, and the locals dumped a deer head on the front porch of the place they were renting with a note attached saying they better not film The Point.

Fuggin Godfather: Pacific Northwest Style!

 

And we thought Belmar was core! HA HA HA HA

 

I don't surf Pavilion. That is too far north for me. Where I am, it has been fairly consistent and very uncrowded.

 

He would have had to offer me a new fin. Single fin LB in beach break with a first time surfer spells disaster.

 

I like localism.

Localism isn't:
One agro dude in a busy lineup that everybody knows about.
Maddog stares or other passive-aggressiveness.
Verbal hassling with no physical confrontation.

Localism is:
Windows Waxed.
Tires Slashed.
A crew sets up inside you and burns you on every wave.
A crew stops you on the way to the water and "lets you know" you won't be surfing here today.
A crew pulls your leash, breaks off your fins, or otherwise assaults your board or your person.

Localism keeps "secret" breaks regulated in the age of the internet, where there are no more secrets. Just one incident is usually enough to scare off hundreds of drive-ins, and put the fear of god into everyone else. Breaks that are completely open and friendly nowadays still scare off or instill respect in drive-ins due to their past reputation for localism.

I've snuck into plenty of localized spots--rumored and actual--and I learned how to keep myself from being a target for the locals--being 2 parts sneaky and one part respectful. I also like knowing that some barney isn't going to roll up with his beamer full of "bro's" and whip out his cell to call in even more donkeys, at some spots. BMW tires and windows are expensive, yo.

 

"Localism is:
Windows Waxed.
Tires Slashed.
A crew sets up inside you and burns you on every wave.
A crew stops you on the way to the water and "lets you know" you won't be surfing here today.
A crew pulls your leash, breaks off your fins, or otherwise assaults your board or your person."

You must be young. As an adult, many of those things will either land you in jail or get you a hefty fine from the cops. Is having an arrest on your record worth keeping a break secret? Your answer will be different when 16 y/o versus 30.