what is/was your last big breakthrough with surfing? mine has been this week. i've gotten pretty adept at going frontside...however, at my local place the lefts seem to have died, and swells have been coming at a more right friendly angle so i gave up on waiting 20 min or so to get a punchless left and started working on my backside more. it felt pretty foreign to me the first few times a tried it, and i couldn't quite get the footing right...then i'd dig a rail and it was all over. but the other day i just kept reminding myself to stay low and i started getting these long, long rides. it was excellent! i will say this about backside, with having an easier view towards the break, it's a lot easier to cut and prolong the ride. left the beach the other day totally stoked (even though it was rather small....and crowded) with a a couple ok rights/lefts, and just as many excellent rights. so, anyone else?
My backside is hit or miss. I'll have one session where I feel really comfortable, decent bottom turns, maybe a little lip smack, etc. The next session, I feel like I am just learning.
The break I grew up on seems to offer more lefts so I actually am more confident backside than front side on larger waves. I love if the waves allow a big round house cutback going left. I used to could do laybacks going backside of course but now I'm to out of shape to get back up. Last time I tried I had to let the wave eat me at the end.lol
