That isn't embarrassing. http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/06/01/off-diamond-head-finnegan Personally, I maybe could have done without the clichéd spiritual stuff at the end.
Some kid moves to Hawaii, get beat up a lot then he gets in with the locals. Surfs some spot that he has to paddle 6 miles to get to, the locals start leaving their boards at his house, blah blah blah
You know surfing has reached a zenith when articles start showing up in New Jerker and other such mags. It presages its doom. Expect much much much (ad infinitum) larger crowds at your local break!!
Nah Barry, Riley wrote about this...if it survived the 80s/early 90s, it'll survive this. We just all need to start being a little meaner out there.
How awkward. I wish we could delete threads. A sad state of affairs. You should probably quit before it gets any worse.
I can't get any meaner!!! I am meaned out!! And I am out of mean pills. What to do!! What to do!!??!!
Nah. I actually like the crowds. In fact, when I find out guys have a secret spot, I publish it. I am well liked by other surfers.....
Thanks for posting! Wow, I relize its in the New Yorker and all... But I thought it was well written, the first 1/3 of it anyways. I didn't finish it. I'm surprised you guys didn't like it... This really brought back some great memories - reminiscing of some of the times that I spent at diamond head... Maybe that's why I like it.. The author really described the area and the waves well. It's just that kind of place, if you actually spend time there, that will leave a lasting impression on you with great memories of surfing some fun waves. Among other times- I remember staying with a friend years back - and they would practically drop me off every morning at diamond head before they went to work- and I would spend all day there - surfing... Lol loved those waves...
