Question: some days the surf is 2-3ft (let's say) and the current is really strong and the waves are closing out. Other days, the surf is 2-3 ft and the waves have more shape, the current isn't nearly as strong and it's generally more fun to ride them. So when you read the buoys, how do you know if the current is going to be really rough with the waves closing out, or it's going to be a calmer day with an easier paddle out and more fun waves?
This is a loaded question. Mitchell probably can answer best but I will throw a couple of thoughts out there. 1. depends on what is creating the swell 2. what are the local winds at time of swell 3. tides 4..... As for the buoy readings. One thing that might help is if it is showing "steep", "average", or "swell". Another thing is dominant swell and period (which will define steep avg swell) and swell direction. The local winds and tides, along with the swell direction will dictate the shape once it hits your local sand bar. I don't know...Determining the conditions on the fickle east coast is an art. Being in tune with your local and reading the buoys over time will teach you a lot about what to expect. Good luck!
Yes and No. Long period (cane swells) will typically close out but short period wind swell with onshore local winds can also cause the waves to close out.
Closeouts are a part of life here on the EC. Your better off learning by observation and experience on which of your local breaks do better with all different variables. Don't drive yourself crazy worrying about how bad the closeouts will be, better off finding the best break option and then work on your speeeeeeeedddddd!!!
Manne, you guys are forgetting something. There's no such thing as closeouts! You're just not surfing fast enough! Also, Shark Hunter told you guys, buoys mean absolutely nothing! The Fock! Julia...you gotta consider several factours. Swell period, direction, tides, and wind all come into play. But if you're blaming closeouts, speed it up.
I thought the closeouts or not related to the water bed topology, and the direction of the wave approaching it. If it hits it flat and all at once - close out, if it's at an angle - you get rolling. Kinda like a point break (Utah!) I'm going to pay attention what the elders chime in on this.
There are no closeouts you just need to surf faster! JK To me knowing how wind direction effects your break is more important than anyhting else other than swell size. And of course how tides change your break.
Swell Direction, Height and Period are always some of the biggest things I look at it New Jerseyian Wave might be pumping at one break and completely flat at another due to swell height As mentioned already EC surf predictin' is fickle...like 3ft fickle dawg
This is where a surf log can really help you. Note the conditions and the factors others have named for a particular spot. After a year you should have enough data to make a pretty good guess where to score if you're surfing a couple different spots. Soon you'll have local knowledge.
As mentioned already EC surf predictin' is fickle...like 3ft fickle dawg[/QUOTE] ^^^true I've shown up when a lot of peeps predicted waves and it's flat or blown out. I've shown up when everybody said it would be flat as a pancake and scored fun waves. The key is to show up as much as possible.
^^^true I've shown up when a lot of peeps predicted waves and it's flat or blown out. I've shown up when everybody said it would be flat as a pancake and scored fun waves. The key is to show up as much as possible.[/QUOTE] Yep. Not to mention how it can change from throughout the day. Sometimes its just an hour window when it all comes together. And when you're talking about ever shifting sandbars...
Ive found that any legit swell on the EC will have a strong longshoure current, 'irregardless' of period a smallish long period swell with no wind will not have a strong current a large swell with much wind will have current I cant list every variable and its outcome, but exploring and recording like clemmie said will help
Thanks for the info. I started taking down notes last weekend. I know that the choppy conditions chart (green-pink) doesn't affect my surf spot. For example, last weekend the chart showed choppy conditions and 15mph winds so you think it would be blown out, but the waves were so much fun. The current got stronger over the weekend which I guess was due to wind and swell size. I'll keep taking notes and see what I come up with. That said, my 2nd favorite spot in the same general area could have crappy little waves while my number 1 spot has fun (and small) waves with a few medium sets coming in. It'll be interesting to compare the two spots.
