This might sound weird, but I wonder what the waves were like on Dec 7, 1941 when the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor on Oahu. I know that they came over on a northern route under cover of a storm to avoid detection. I'm not sure but I think I've read somewhere that a midget sub's crew had to ditch and swim ashore and one of them drowned in the surf. I think it washed ashore at a place called Bellow's Beach but I'm not certain. Some of their attack routes took them directly over the North Shore area on the way to the harbor and other sites. Do you guys think there was anybody surfing that day or had they not started surfing Hawaii yet. I just a little interested.
dunno if they had been riding those giants back then. they may have when it wasn't huge tho. i think the boards weren't sophisticated enough to handle them yet. correct me if i'm wrong, i'm kinda guessing hah.
http://www.coffeetimes.com/surf.htm This is the earliest western description of surfing from a Captain King in 1779. Unfortunately, the natives did not keep records of it so it is somewhat hard to approximate how long they have been surfing there.