Peak. Shoulder.

Oh man SS that chick could cause a lifetime of nightmares for me

But Uncle Barrels would hit and Barry Fumunda Cudda would take sloopy seconds...bet

Ah Frost nice gallery pic...that and the dude totally getting shaked or shacked in Galveston totally made my day

Hey LBC yesterday was quite lovely were I was at...Nice little pulse pushed in around 4 made it real nice like when the tide started coming back in..some chest high wedges to be had..Ghost of SJB swell..thanks dawg

 

...

 

which on the in action one or the pose one?

 

exactly!!! you have to earn, no amount $ can buy you the peak

and

its easy; first rider to his feet. if you ride prone, tough nuts

 

Get to the peak or deal with watching.

 

I have a hard time seeing where a prone rider paddling into a perfect peak on a good formed barrel wave doesn't have the right of way if a stand up guy happens to get to his feet on the shoulder

 

Oh and dont paddle inside people to get there.

 

Today people have no clue. I guess they are somewhat excused because they just don't know any better. I see it every summer. The peak closest to the jetty gets the pack, even when it's better some yards north.

But people of all levels hit that peak/pack. And it's nothing but drop ins and collisions. Saw an epic one last September(hurrycane swell so you know that hype). Words can't describe. I even unconsciously let out an , "OHHHHH" as they collided.

Nobody involved cared......Is that good or bad. I don't know.

I had some dude paddle my way, one day, and say, "Wow angry guys over there..."

As I just watched the guy obviously drop-in time and time again....

They have no idea.

Jesus man what is wrong with people and the world these days?

I don't know maybe in a way it's better. The 70's and black wetsuites, clear boards and real beards(non-hipster) are dead, I guess, besides a few hamlets in Cullyfornia and Oregon....and, of course, Ruggles.

 

He doesn't. That's just MIS-13's logic as he is anti-sponge. Though he knows Hubbard and Botha rule. He's seen 'em. Nobody busts better.

See the brain is the pleasure center, that's where the dope kicks in at, and having your head closer to the source of speed is where it is at..no matter how bad it looks in sloppy small waves. It's the feel, not the show.

Hey everyday can't be Salt Creek, ya know......

 

Man, was watching all these Botha vids on vimeo(via-appletv, I'm gettin' fancy) last night, definitely the man.

 

yea being head first ain't no joke sometime,,earlier this summer waves were medium but had some punch from a groundswell somehow,,they were breaking awfully steep,i was on one at top(peak?) and is a funny feeling staring down head first...I just remember paddling into it, and at the top saying "oh crap" I made It though....

luckily in chuck we don't have to much lineup problems,,seldom is their not enough room to move a lil farther away etc, maybe over at washout I dunno,but at iop the more problems are the throngs of kids and old dudes with every kinda of blowup air inflatable thing you can think of ...

 

Love that kid(man). He was a nut-case, 16-year-old, fresh on the scene crispy and clean, back in the day.

Fearless.

Friggin A he even looked like a young Seth Stafford, similar dispositions too. Seth didn't care either. Nothing phased them. Oh Seth was a promising boog turned pro surf photographer. Which for awhile there seemed to be the rule...

Seth pisses on all other photographers, even that Mack guy with the gun and that blonde chick, Bub is hoping to woo with his chivalry.

"Hey Bree, yeah they were hassling you on Swellinfo - America's Premiere Surf Predictin' website - but I defended you....."

 

F'n A Riley I'm cracking up over here...especially that last bit.

Bub, you're a good dude, and thorough.

 

thats because you struggle to pay attention to the scenario that notaseal asked and made up your own hypothetical scenario.

its ok, go back and re-read. Also, I will summarize; all things being equal, surfer up and riding first has priority.

I didnt make this up and if you disagree, its cause you arent paying attention

on a side note, if you are on the shoulder and up and riding and guy at peak is still getting to his feet, fade back, act like you are going that way, gain priority and THEN continue on. if you dont like that..... SURF BETTER OR FIND ANOTHER PEAK*

 

"Yeah they said you weren't fit to sleep with pigs. But I said you were."