If your getting paddled around it's not because they are a-holes its because you aren't keeping your spot in the lineup. Either your not doing it right or they are just better than you. It's not the board it's you. I am sick of hearing about particular board "models". Pay attention to the tides and use common sense. Yes the ocean is mysterious but there is a science to conditions. If you want to get up early and surf, sleep in the most uncomfortable place you can find. Don't stretch on the beach. Don't fvcking paddle inside people. Point your shoulder, front arm, and gaze where you want to go. Get a carver board. Get to know your local lifeguard. If someone gets a good wave, even if they got a lot already, tell them. Don't be afraid to ask people in the water for advice on how to improve your surfing. Have fun. Be smart.
If you really fvck up its ok to curse a little. If you are posing don't curse and whine when you miss waves because you want people to hear you.
Don't be afraid to surf in a crowd. It makes you surf better because you have to compete for your waves and you have to take off at the peak. Don't let the bobbing black dots scare you. Once you paddle out your just another bobbing black dot.
Bub you on the L train today? All good stuff. I do stretch a little before i paddle out tho, but I do it in the porto potty.
i'll throw another one out there. It's a pet peeve. When you' re suiting up in the parking lot at dawn shut your car. Shut your radio. maybe you could keep your voice down. Just shush, enjoy the peace and quiet, or at least let me enjoy it.
So its look left, look right, 4 strokes than 2 double stokes and stand up? OK! Got it. Let's go surfing?
If you have the best wave of your life.....don't look in at the beach. If you fvck up royally.......don't look in at the beach.
