who were ur idols when u started surfing.who inspired you

gerlach and parsons was such the oddest couple.parsons was a straight shooter,gerr would show up butt naked getting barreled,partying.its all about having a good time,and the waves don't last forever.some people just go home and watch tv,others party their brains out.dont party too much lol.

and mark healy.I have a dvd of him when he was a 14yr old grom charging chopes.then I seen on him mtv true story or whatever the show called "im a big wave surfer."healy was not respected at all back in those days,but proved everyone wrong and now hes one of the top dogs.i been trying to find that episode online for a long time with no success.i think makua rothman punched some dude for snaking him in a contest lol.

Christian fletcher will always be a legend in my eyes.beat slater at lowers after smoking an oz of grass before the final,he beat tom curren at pipe while high on lsd lol.I think surfing on acid would be a great experience.surfing drunk rarely works out.i often surf after I smoke some grass,because I smoke grass before I do everything lol,and il go jump in the water and not even paying attention and letting the ocean take me wherever she wants.one day it wasn't even big,probly 3-4+ and I just kept paddling and paddling not looking back and by the time I turned around I was probably atleast a quarter mile out to sea lol.I just lay on my board and chill for a while,just bobbing up and down is fun in itself,aslong as ur not in the shorebreak lol.

 

the old guys rule man,theyr not little hipster tough guy phags,they'll hoot u into waves,talk u into paddling out when ur not up to it.a while ago,me and my buddy went out like the last week of may,and we only had 1 wetsuit lol,and he paddled out and actually caught a legit bomb by complete mistake.he didn't do anything fancy or nothing,but just the fact he caught it at his level was pretty amazing.he washes into shore and im like its my turn,and he turns and heads back out,and the old guys are like just come on out water isn't that cold.long story short,I did not go out lol,I tried but ran back in after my balls disappeared in waist deep water