Summer Ko00kery

I used to bounce by night and work with bankers by day, been there. It makes the other suits scared to ask how it happened. First rule of fight club is there is no fight club.

 

My jaw was broken by a ditched board 6 yrs ago. Ditched boards are lame.

 

Good grief. Ditched boards are worse than lame, they're lethal.

 

made a super late drop going drop knee backside through some white wash today...tide was coming in so swell was dying, which means all the summer pros that couldn't handle the 5 am wake up and 4-6" were coming out for the 3-4" at 8 am...

grabbin' rail, thinking i might just make it outta the section and get some backside hacks when all the sudden this kook that couldn't handle her self or her bic got sucked over the falls on top of my fockin' head and back...somehow escaped her fins, but felt her writhing in the turbulence above me...i hope she at least got water up her nose

 

true, but have some fockin manners...when i first started i deferred on every wave i saw someone else going for, knowing my level and just assuming that everyone else had seniority and priority...waited my turn.

stuck around through winter and that's when the real progression started to happen due to far better waves and fewer in the line up. now these beyatches need to learn some manners and apply them, even to surf

 

somebody has to add the new guy moblins to this list, effing with the horses on AI

 

there are two types of surfers: kooks, and senior forum members... recanize

 

every year i have the same hate wrath: surf school pushing their people straight in on a wave I'm already on.

these guys need to teach etiquette

 

True dat.

the gnome ditched his plank &took out Staten Island

 

haha hey man, sometimes you gotta take a hoof to the ass to get paid

 

Man I paddle out today and immediately this thread comes to mind. But not in the way you think. Everybody around me seems to be all polite and know what they doing, me on ther hand - all over the place. Hahaha getting chucked out, board flu g off from under me, flipped over on the lip, charging for sh1t ahead of peeps with priority and bailing on waves like crazy.
Not even on purpose either tho, just nothing I did had even a hint of finesse to it.
I've seen parents get their kids out of my way, I've got chucked over the lip with zero understanding where my board was or which way is up.
Dude gets up on the left of me on the shoulder on an obvious left, I decide I'm just gonna anyway and ride in the pocket, NOPE decides last second to go right cause it was "opening that way" wtf? #sandrecon so I almost impale him in the bac. Put my board sideways and slide before bailing. Crisis averted that one time...
On that note I'd like to apologize to the surfing community for my presence in the water today.

 

little bit of the old kookery on display this afternoon....huge surprise!

 

Buck up little camper, we have all had those days

 

Hey, some places this is exceptable behavior. Bwahahahaha

 

Only one more week guys!!! Then at least the lifeguards will be gone and the beaches will be open again!!!

Get your boreds waxed up- now all we need is a hurricane swell!

 

+1. Yeeeewwwww

 

getting bumped by a foamie is the worst. It's demeaning more than painful is what it is... Feels like you're a cat that just received a neighbors flying fuzzy slipper for stretching on the back fence mad early in the morning...
No reason for such violence man...

 

Thanks man.

 

Be strong my terrycloth friend. You weren't the only one to have a sh!tty day in the water. While I did not recklessly endanger others as you did, I just could not do anything right. My paddling, my pop ups, everything sucked. Never got the rhythm and flow. More frustration than fun for me. I was embarrassed to be in the ocean on a wave surf riding bored.

However, much like the waves come and go, I know that so do days like this. It'll be better next time. I did find a bored leash that had been abandonned by it's owner and I did remember to bring a towel so it wasn't a totally bad day.