who here has been surfing this week?

Not sure I'd consider myself a famous swellerer. Legendary perhaps. Betterer today than I expected considering it's five second chop. More tomorrow. Erika didn't abandonne us completely! Nice to surf the home break again. I love going upcoast and all but there's no place like home.

Life is good. I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Back again this morning, some waist-chest, 11 seconds, nice and glassy. Still many lethal kooks and/or newbies losing control of their boards.

And as a bonus, I found a fishing pole floating around in the surf. I stuck it in the nearest trash barrel.

 

The-place-that-shall-not-be-named was going off yesterday. Chest high on sets for DP. Glass. No wind to slightly west until mid-day. Not too crowded, not too many SUPs out, the usual suspects eastern shore locals who are totally cool & everyone friendly, give waves get waves.

The usual mix of kooks who are on SUPs for the first time, 30-year guys who are now bringing the entire fam (cool), short board poseurs who can be counted on to miss almost every wave they go for, lightweight girls on giant longboards who catch many waves, shredders who can surf & groms who will be scary good one day.

The Magic Hour (no, that's NOT MIS thing & wayne in the windowless white van of duct tape & doom) was late morning, when the swell started to pick up a bit while the winds stayed glass-to-west & the lefts were just unfurling over the bars. Paddle out was candy, turn & go, head high on sets the occasional big surprise splitting into left & right rumbling on through.

3 hrs in the morning, then the magic hour (which was actually 2 hrs), then late afternoon was bigger swell but the 12 knot dead S wind turned it into choppy bump city.

A great day, a fantastic day at the-place-that-shall-not-be-named. And.....only a few weeks until the turista pigs leave. It's dismaying to experience the debris those people leave on the beach. The human virus.

 

surfed north side of mercers this morning and it was fun

 

Head high sets were rolling in yesterday evening. Most fun surf I've gotten all summer

 

yes it was....on the sets, the lefts were firing like it was winter, only with tropical water.

 

Today was nothing like yesterday but a bunch of fun waist high longboard waves...had a blast this afternoon on the low incoming, then shot these around 5.

 

I would bet I was at or near the same not to be named place. Absolutely going off for this time of year. I still can't get over how good it was. My son and I surfed for 6 hrs. I have not been this sore in a while. Great score and crowds were not an issue. Mostly locals with everyone playing nice-nice. Friggin blast.

 

Dammit, I knew I should have gone

 

Monday was good. Shoulder to head high, glassy and a dozen or so people out. Most laid back session I've had in awhile with plenty of waves to go around and lots of stoke.

 

Saturday was waist high windchoppe and it was fun. It was weird because I was the old guy out on a fish and there were two kids out on longboards, instead of visa versa. We all caught lots of waves.

Sunday morning I got there an hour too late. It looked good on the cam when I left the house. It got bigger but the tide went out and the wind was whipping sideshore out of the south. You could only paddle out along the jetty, and it was kinda hairy. I drifted into some head high chunks, did lots and lots of duckdiving, and ended up a bit sore from all the paddling and roof work Saturday morning combined. After a long layoff, even after swimming and paddling all summer, it still takes surfing to get in shape for head high windchoppe.

 

Been a great little run of surf we've had recently. Small, but rideable, with warm water and hot summer sun.

Yesterday I went down to the spot I've been hitting up all week, and after doing some intensive sand reconne, decided to grab the mini-simmons instead of the log for a change of pace.

But that was it... flat today, me thinks.

 

More tropical action today. Looked like carp this morning, so I was surprised to find it HH and bombing at noon. Warm water and three other guys out. High tide had it breaking right on the sand, like a cool slightly-more-mushy Sandy's. The wind was light and it stayed semi-glass. Fun lunch. Hope it holds through tomorrow.

 

weekend mush kookery





I'm pretty proud of my artistism right there.

 

**** was head high..

 

Skillz are evident. Can't help but notice that you seem to be using the closest foot.

 

Dang, these tropical swells just won't quit! Now Frank or whatever TD-14 turned into is taking an ideal track...

Yesterday was semi-blown but it was still pretty awesome. Really glad I decided to ignore the wind and paddle out. The little corner by the seawall was holding shape even in the chop, and it was bombing! I got one that stood up on takeoff to better than HH! Warm clear water too, feeling more and more like East Side HI. So nice to be surfing at lunch.

Looked good today on the drive in. Maybe a little smaller as the sideband 'cane swell slowly blows down. Hopefully the wind is better and all the wave action has broken/built in better sand.

 

Jesus the goddamn Pacific and that little child. Not fair.


I was upta camp the past few days, and the fourcast looked meager. Scored a few Saturday, clean lil' fellers. Had a feeling about Tuesday...supposed to be 2 ft. Well, at mid-outgoing, sh!t got weird. Started getting these random 3 + bordering on 4 ft for like two hours. I mean, nothing crazy, but enough power to make some backwash and such.

 

Yesterday was the peak fo sho. Got there for the last 20 minutes of glassy HH+ barrels! Hella closed out, as always, though. Still fun lunch. Mostly blew out during the hour I was there. Might be enough left to be fun today, but tropical swells die quick. Still looked do-able from the drive in, so maybe we're getting back-up swell from Kevin already... one can hope.

Next week--after the holiday--is 4cast to be bombing with a long-period southern hemi. 4cast to peak Monday, but they always hit a day or two later than forecast. If the NWS warnings start on Saturday, you can bet it will be flat up here until Monday. I think I'll finally stop camping at my close-in lunch spot and go hit one of the better south swell breaks nearby.

 

7 a.m. surf check this morning...Labor Day came through with some glassy nugs! Perfect soft waves for the mini simmons