Longboarding vs Shortboarding..... vibezzzz

Curren is the ultimate example of style. Slates comes close, but that's because he learned from Curren. Curren probably mimicked someone else, etc, etc.
It like dancing, yo. Err-body can do the whip, nay nay, and the stanky leg. But, the youtube videos with the most hits have got the most stee-looo, motherfu**ERRR.

 

wourde!

 

One should have a quiver with vastly different length boards, as well as styled boards. Presently, I am down to 8 boards, 2 of which are longboards, most are midsize, shaped as big guy tris, even have a recently acquired egg. I choose for a session whatever the waves call for. Sometimes, when the waves are really large (for nh), 8-10 ft faces, I purposely choose a longboard for the pure fun of it. There are no rules about who should surf what, only morons believe that (usually the ones with little to no skills). Surfing is about fun...not rules. I do still prefer, however, a smaller and slimmer board when waves get large. Whatever I feel to do on a given day or swell....

 

Gavel drop. This meeting is adjourned. Have a great afternoon.

 

When I was in my late teens and early 20s, me and my friends all rode twin fins, even at DOH. We spun out, and didn't make it too far down the line, but we went vertical and did rad moves and shredded the wave to pieces.

We hated LBs, and I refused to ride one until I hit 35. Then only in waist high or smaller. I bought an old waterlogged Donald Takayama for $50, and it was a nose rider, and it refused to turn. But it got me out on small days, and I paddled it when it was flat.

Then I bought a high performance long board with some rocker and a three fin set up, and it flew, and could turn easily, do smooth cutbacks, off the lips, it rode like a shortboard from the tail, but it made sections that a shortboard couldn't make, due to it going very very fast.

Once I took it out in waves I thought were shoulder high from the beach, but the sets were way over head once I got out there. I never went so fast on a surfboard of any design. It was a blast.

Here is one myth that is BS: they are only for small waves. I have friends who surf Costa Rican and big winter surf on longboards, and they get all the big sets and shred to the sand.

Another one: they are for old men. I don't know where you all surf, but here, we have lots of men, women, boys, and girls who can shred on a LB in all size surf.

I don't care if you LB or not. Just stating the facts.

One more fact: getting barrelled on a LB is scary as hell, and a total adrenaline rush. Not for the faint of heart.

 

^^^ Preach brotha Preach!

Wayne, this is how a man preaches on a surf predictin website, take notes!

 

i ride a 6'0" and an 8'2" depending on the waves and my vibe. just stoked to be surfing

 

All very true- I have surfed Tres Palmas at 18ft faces on a longboard, it was the only board available to me at the time. Last December. Tres was breaking 12-14, I took a longboard out (with very narrow diamond tail), and caught more waves and had as much fun as the 4 other guys out there on guns. I did these things when young, mid aged, and now at age 64.
Having said that, I still prefer 7'6" as my preferred size board when waves are shoulder or higher. But I never have let the size of a board embarrass me. Real watermen are smarter than that.

 

Hey Barry, do you know that older lady who always surfs Maria's / Tres on a LB? She looks to be in her 60's if I had to guess. Not very easy on the eyes, but efficient in the water.

Last I was down there she was dropping in on some 8-10 footers on her LB and making it look easy. With that log she was able to pick off the set waves from waaaay outside before anybody else, kinda fun to watch, unless you wanted that wave of course HAHA

 

ride everything

 

Unfortunately I do not know her. But...maybe I do from long ago and I just don't know who you are referring to. Is she American or portorican??
Anyway, the whole debate about short versus long is moronic. Strict bias towards one or the other is a waste of time. As metard states, "ride everything". I have yet to ride a SUP, but I have not solely for 2 reasons--the paddling motion throws my back out, and....I really don't like the heavy SUP board. Too heavy to get it off the car, down the beach, etc. I had kayaks years ago--I got rid of them for the very same reasons.

 

Who am I to judge? I ride everything except midlengths. Not saying midlengths suck, or you're a lame azz kook if you ride them... just saying it's not my preference. A local guy I surf with once in a while only rides midlengths and logs, and has more style than I could ever hope to have.

This is a great thread, OP... lots of interesting takes on LB vs. SB. To each their own.

And I must say a big, gnarly barrel on a longboard is as big a rush as anything else in surfing. Definitely a one-of-a-kind feeling. And you only know what I'm talking about if you've been there.

Oh... and as for vibes... that more often determines what board I choose to ride, than how I feel when I'm done. No matter what the board or conditions, I always feel the same way after a good surf... happy.

 

Si!

 

She's definitely a PR local, tan / darker skin, looks a little rough around the edges, kinda thick, but a work horse out there for sure HAHA

I hear ya on the SUP, my wife got one for me several years ago and it was fun for about a year or two and then the novelty wore off. It's what I do on flat days and to go fishing sometimes, but I don't bother surfing it anymore, it's just a pain the ass like you stated.

There are however, much lighter / smaller HPSUP's out there that would be fun but I just don't have any desire to get one at this moment, or ever, IDK. I have enough regular SB's & LB's to bother with one. My next board is going to be another Coil, but I want something with less foam for even higher performance on good days.

 

You took the words right out of my mouth Stinkbug your the man..

 

Just throwing gas on the fire Littlericky. Sorry bro typo...

 

LOL, I've never thought about that. Just thinking about it gave me a chill.

^^^^THIS.^^^^

 

dont be mad you dont got the balls to drop bigger waves on a lb. its okay you cant avoid a 9ft if you fell off.

 

Great stuff, well stated sisurfdawgg