who here has been surfing this week?

We've had NE winds (aka devil wind) here for what seems like a month straight but in the mornings it's been light and semi offshore so there's been some decent surf, especially on Saturday morning when it was way over head, clean but drifty. This week looks to be shaping up pretty good too. I really wish we'd get one good hurricane swell before the season is over though!

 

masonboro was cock high and glassy on sunday

 

Croatan (VB) was up to waist high and fairly clean early AM Sunday. Very foggy drive to the beach.
Hardly any breeze. Only two of us out there at first, then beginning around 8:30, it started filling up. Word must've gotten out that conditions were actually better than had been forecasted or reported. But around 9:00, conditions began to deteriorate, and I went home feeling great to have gotten up early and gone out.

 

Got home from a long day at work about 5:55 and put the trunks on, board on the bikesicle, short barefoot peddle down to the ocean front at 26th street.

Got to the hotels and almost started going backwards on my sicle due to the venturie effect created by the narrow gap between them.

Waves were big and I didn't get too much to write home about but, for one, I got some great exercise... i dont know if i ever stopped paddling. Two, there's nothing better than duck diving a thick, meaty, wave. Three, the sheer power these bigger waves have that hurl you down the face and into a huge bottom turn is amazing even if you don't make the sections(lol i didn't). Seems like it only takes two strokes to get you in, and like you have all the time in the world to get your feet planted exactly where you want them.

I, for one, would take 6' foot crumbly chop over 2-3' glass any day. Just stoked to see some size out there for the first time in a long time.

Praying for a day of light winds within this swell window because 6 foot spitting barrels is obviously better than the crumbly chop...

 

So, knee high?

 

Well it depends, kinda like the waist band trick for a RB (random boner), you might fold her upwards which would make it chest high. I typically do this when i wear my wetsuite so I had a long slot hollowed out in the middle of my board so I can lay flat. Without the slot I am precariously unstable.

On the downside it definitely hurts the re-sale value of the boards...

 

Your pepis goes to your chest???

 

If it doesn't get swallowed by my belly button..

 

That is fantastic Tractor, godspeed.

 

intermediate level waves on mon. Some piggy backs and double ups. Died down some into the eve as the tide pushed back.... Maybe 10 people out... 3 where I was. But then I usually pick the shottiest spot and try to make the most of it. Idea is - if I can catch waves and surf HERE - I can definitely surf over there where people are having fun and not struggling like at all.

Sand reconne was thorough

 

Best day down here was Sunday AM at CB but calf kept cramping up. KB turned on nice Sunday PM. Had a good sesh. Had another good sesh Monday PM at CB. Screwed around this AM and missed the (very) brief offshores. Went out a lil while before dark and drifted like mad and took a pounding. Looks like crap for the next few days, but Sunday might turn out nice.

 

Was angry about not surfing since Friday. Now I'm mellow. Fun today, same crappy beach, but the same good wind, same warm water. Nothing special, just a nice session in the noonday sun. One other guy paddled out so I threw his stuff in the water.

I didn't mellow out immediately.

 

When I got out of the ocean, a lady asked me if I was tired from all that waveriding. I told her once the body gives out, the adrenaline takes over. Then I threw her sh!t in the water.

 

[video=youtube_share;gAYL5H46QnQ]http://youtu.be/gAYL5H46QnQ[/video]

 

Anyone paddle out in moco today? Got home from work late- it looked semi clean but shutting down... Some of the lefts looked good- anyone on it??

Belmar was probably the call... #saltlife

 

Delmarva was fun this afternoon, at least where I was the wind seemed to back off in the arvo. first thing it had looked like hell.

Chest high, rippable, obviously lumpy from the onshores.

 

Already wearing a rubber up that way? What's the water temps like?

 

water low mid 70s, cool breeze, air temps in the 70 range. It was trunkable, but breezy.

 

Hit the n end of the pier this am. Was even more drifty and disorganized than yesterday. Shoulder was burning before I ever made it out. Had one stack up and had to choose between trying to make the drop or taking it on the head. Went for it. Bounced off the bottom, didn't make it. Got pummeled. Walked back up and tried again. Shoulder wasn't having it. Bailed.

 

Got out this morning early- it was sweet! I guess as good as it could be given the swell direction. All lefts- light offshore and peeling! About chest hi maybe some bigger sets.